Strange looking old Stopcock

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27 Oct 2012
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Location
Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire
Country
United Kingdom
In my previous house I managed to replace a seized stopcock, one like the below:

https://www.toolstation.com/stopcock/p71816

So when we moved into our current place, I thought nothing of doing the same as it's handle is missing and threads damaged!

However I haven't seen this type before and can't find any on the internet that look similar!
I doesn't appear to have a top nut, so I'm stumped. See attached pics.

Does anyone recognise this type and can offer some advice on how to change it?
I can isolate the water supply outside so no issues there.

Thanks

IMAG3069_1.jpg

IMAG3070_1.jpg

IMAG3065_1.jpg

IMAG3067_1.jpg
 
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Looks me that it is either soldered direct into the top (assuming the upper pipe is copper) must have taken some heat to get that joint up to temperature!
Or if the upper one is iron, screwed in, although it looks like copper in the picture.
It will be ¾" imperial copper I would cut the pipe and reconnect with a bit of 22mm tube. 99% of the time you can use 22mm compression fittings on ¾" pipe as long as you swap the metric olives for imperial ones most plumbers merchants can supply them just pray it ain't the 1%!;)

https://www.bes.co.uk/3-4in-compres...MIz6n3iu6X6QIVi7HtCh1QYACzEAQYASABEgLmm_D_BwE
 
if you can unscrew and remove the topworks, you can probably renovate it. I find PTFE is very good for resealing old spindles and screwed joints. You won't be operating it often enough to wear it out quickly. You need to polish up the brass with a green scourer to get the scale and corrosion off, before reassembly, and you can use white silicone grease on other moving parts.

That means you can leave the body of the valve in place.

In other cases, you can buy a similar valve and just swap the topworks, but you may not be able to match your old one.
 
Looks me that it is either soldered direct into the top (assuming the upper pipe is copper) must have taken some heat to get that joint up to temperature!
Or if the upper one is iron, screwed in, although it looks like copper in the picture.
It will be ¾" imperial copper I would cut the pipe and reconnect with a bit of 22mm tube. 99% of the time you can use 22mm compression fittings on ¾" pipe as long as you swap the metric olives for imperial ones most plumbers merchants can supply them just pray it ain't the 1%!;)
https://www.bes.co.uk/3-4in-compres...MIz6n3iu6X6QIVi7HtCh1QYACzEAQYASABEgLmm_D_BwE

It does seem to be copper pipes at both sides of the stopcock.

if you can unscrew and remove the topworks, you can probably renovate it. I find PTFE is very good for resealing old spindles and screwed joints. You won't be operating it often enough to wear it out quickly. You need to polish up the brass with a green scourer to get the scale and corrosion off, before reassembly, and you can use white silicone grease on other moving parts.
That means you can leave the body of the valve in place.
In other cases, you can buy a similar valve and just swap the topworks, but you may not be able to match your old one.

I need to replace the whole thing as it sticks out of the plasterboard wall, so the new fitting needs to be rotated 90 degrees to stay within the wall.

It seems this is now beyond my capabilities as it's not a simple swap, so will have to call in a professional, once this lockdown ends!
 
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Looks me that it is either soldered direct into the top (assuming the upper pipe is copper) must have taken some heat to get that joint up to temperature!
Or if the upper one is iron, screwed in, although it looks like copper in the picture.
It will be ¾" imperial copper I would cut the pipe and reconnect with a bit of 22mm tube. 99% of the time you can use 22mm compression fittings on ¾" pipe as long as you swap the metric olives for imperial ones most plumbers merchants can supply them just pray it ain't the 1%!;)

https://www.bes.co.uk/3-4in-compres...MIz6n3iu6X6QIVi7HtCh1QYACzEAQYASABEgLmm_D_BwE

In comparison with the earth clamps that's 1/2" copper in the pics.
 
If you're feeling brave, should be able to cut the copper above and below and take the whole thing out, then slot in a new 15mm stopcock, and piece of 15mm tube to bridge the gap.
 
I am still trying to get that invisible pipe the makers use in their brochures!
 

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