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Ahh righto, I didn't imagine the construction would make much difference. :) So the house is brick and block with cavity. Downstairs is a suspended floor.... concrete slab and then brick pillars with the joists laid on it for the floorboards. Upstairs floor void is 9" joists. Loft is...

No no, it's not that I won't be having someone sign the paperwork, it's more that I am doing the general labouring work for him. I've channelled out new back boxes and run the cable to it etc. Basically first fix. And funny enough, he was quite happy for me to do it as let's be fair, running...

Ahhh great stuff thanks for that. Would you go for wireless or wired shock sensors if you had the choice then? The house is a bomb site at the minute so it's a pretty much blank canvass. If wired though, how the hell do people hide the wires? Front and back door the same sensors? Or something...

Ok thank you for that :) So pet sensors don't work then? I guess that rules put PIR then. So contacts on the door and windows. I presume it's best to but them to go with the alarm itself, or is there better ones from elsewhere to pair with it? Thanks for the help like, it's something I've never...

Erm........ no idea!! :D Seriously, haven't got one yet. We will have one mid September. It will be 99% likely a Labrador. :)

Good afternoon all! Ok, firstly a little apology if this is a bit of a boring one, I've done loads of searching and reading on the net, but it's never as good as asking pros/experienced users for advice. I've been doing some reading on alarms. It seems Pyronix and the Honeywell Galaxy are 2...

If you read my post, as it explained, the conservatory is already on the end of a radial circuit that originates through the kitchen. The kitchen will become a ring. So the conservatory needs a supply of power. This is where the 4mm comes in. It will for the time being, be connected to the...

Not sure I follow that bud. Edit; Doh! Got it now. That's pretty much him. Although you forgot drunk. He's often drunk. Well weekends and all that. Lol

Lol, sweet cheeks your theories matter not to me, and most of the forum for that matter. The bit you are clearly champing at is the cable run through the cavity in the dwarf wall. Sigh. The cable is already there. It's been there since 1999 when it was installed. It hasn't caused damp. In fact...

I could get involved in a discussion with you about the all of the above........... But quite frankly I can't be bothered, and I'd sooner listen to a skilled tradesman. Thanks anyway. You have yourself a lovely day :)

For upstairs. The way the sockets are located it's not an easy ring, so I am looking to run 2 radials up each side of the landing as it were. Downstairs it will be a ring for the kitchen, the radial for the conservatory and a radial for the remaining sockets downstairs. :)

Im assuming he will be absolutely fine knowing I asked a question to safeguard MY house.

He's on holiday in Ibiza, I'm pretty sure a text asking him the question would be as welcome as a sh1t sandwich........ ;)

Ah good stuff thanks. Yes I appreciate it's notifiable. Im doing the grunt work for the sparky that's all.

Up north that translates as Fvck 0ff. :D

Evening all, Hopefully a couple of quick questions for you.... I'm thinking of putting a new radial circuit to the conservatory. SWMBO would like an electric wall type heater in there, and there is 3 double sockets, at the moment to run 2 uplighters and a tv. Will 4mm be sufficient do we...

Ah, I see, so it's the fact the MCB isn't protecting the cable that's the problem, not that there is an fcu somewhere in the line.

Aye, I'm just also trying to get my head round it :D So if it's a radial circuit, there is no limit to how many sockets you can have on it right? (Although I did read that floor area was a limiting factor, although I'd also read that wasn't actually set in stone) Is it the fact it's a fcu...

Is a rfc and a radial on one MCB not classed as a single circuit? If so, surely it's fine?

Try the Myson heat loss manager. Then choose a rad design you like, find the BTU or KW of the radiator that matches the heat loss calcs and then choose the rad that's slightly bigger than what you actually need.