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What make/model?

What type of Fridgefreezer/Make/Model are you getting, is it the type with two compressors, (are they still available?) ie the (a) fridge is essentially just mounted on top of the freezer or one with one compressor but two stats, the fridge is controlled, I think, by a fan blowing cold air air...

I wouldn't be too happy with a pre charge pressure of anything < 0.5bar, the pressure (air end) mightn't be high enough to push the bladder towards the water end, especially in the most common ones where the bladder is just shoved into the EV at the water end.

NO, Under no circumstances, would I swap any bits. Reliance will soon tell you if that model is drop tight or not. Why don't you just run that test I proposed, if only for interest.

I wouldn't, under any circumstances, mix old with new. Are you sure that there is other mains supply to showers or a unvented cylinder etc and that this PRV is the only source?

Indeed, and what is very annoying is that even when the boiler output is well above its minimum output that the flow temperature can be 2 to 3 deg higher than the target flow temperature even under steady demand conditions, completely unacceptable, IMO, because the burner trips (shuts down) at...

Yes, understood, but try and get a handle on just how much its leaking past by doing the above test, just keep opening any tap very very gradually until the pressure just stops falling, it should be ~ 3.0bar or possibly slightly higher, doesn't really matter, take a photo then of the water...

Yes, I wouldn't expect them to just shoot up instantly, what I would suggest is to crack open a tap somewhere just enough to reduce/maintain the setpoint and measure the flowrate.

Well, must be faulty then, a bit surprising though, maybe worth looking to see if there's any crap under the valve seat.

Yes, it does show it as drop tight. Can you check the actual model number, the one I have in my file as being non drop tight is (Reliance Predator) (PRED800015). Can you remove the down stream pipe and then see if it holds its pressure, if it doesn't then I would contact Reliance for...

A plug in energy in my 17 year old fridge/freezer (see below) also shows very high inrush "power" of ~ 700/800 watts, sometimes I can hear a click from the fridge/freezer which I'd say is the thermal overload operating, it then restarts itself about a minute or so later and runs away fine. A...

A ABV won't work with a modulating circ pump, see if you can have a bypass through a towel rad or similar, ie somehere where the flow is not stopped when the zone valves shut when the boiler shuts down, in any case suggest setting the ABV around (4M) and monitor the % boiler modulation in the...

Yes, that's correct, you must install the drop tight type to achieve no flow set point pressure.

Can you just get a very small flow from it and see what pressure does it then show. What pressure is set to. (looks like 3.0bar) Also the Predator is NOT a drop tight PRV which means the pressure will rise to the full upstream pressure with no demand. Drop Tight PRVs (there are probably more)...

It doesn't state what the actual low pressure setting is but does say to keep the pressure between 1.0 to 1.5bar so would think that the lockout shoud be ~ 0.5bar. When you had the leak, L1 at a dT of > 30C would trip the boiler as well but IMO, FI should have tripped it well before it reached...

Its unusual not to have a low pressure boiler trip with a sealed system, what make/model is your boiler?.

Where is the combi (with presumably its integral EV) located in relation to the highest rad?, if the rad is higher than the boiler pressure then there will be no circulation through this/these rads, if the rad elevation is, say, 3M, 0.3bar and if the boiler pressure is , say 0.1/0.2bar, then...

If the EV (expansion vessel) is installed on the ground floor then ~0.5bar is the minimum required to reach the highest point (usually a rad) in the system, if the EV is positioned in say the hot press then ~ 0.25bar would be sufficient, you should then increase the filling pressure by...

I've installed 1 replacement horizontal one after ~ 14 years in my daughters oil fired system, its still there 8 years later now.

Basically, you probably would install a 2 port capillary type mixing valve on a piece of pipe between the boiler flow and return with the capillary tube sensor attached to the boiler return and set to 40/45C, the valve will be fully open on a cold boiler and allow hot water from the boiler flow...