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I need to cut out a damaged section of 10mm twin & earth cable and reconnect it - whilst the cable isn’t actually exposed, it is in a vertical position where it’s likely to get damp and drips on it. Are there any IP68-style connectors designed for this, or will I need to silicone a round cable...

Main earth comes in with the cable in a conduit (other earth is onto a brass tap which is fitted to a poly pipe…). I’ve turned the supply off until I can get it sorted.

Yes, there’s a meter (spinning round much more quickly with this issue) - think the problem might be in the old fuse box, I can hear arcing when one of the outlet cables is moved. Ground sparking seems to stop when just the fuse box is turned off but supply remains on.

Have a steel-framed agricultural-style building - it has a single phase distribution board inside which supplies a few outside lights and inside 13 amp sockets. One of the old-style wire fuses blew, which appears to supply three double sockets - I replaced the wire and the sockets worked...

Not just me then! Thanks all for the advice, it seemed to be behaving so I’ve siliconed everything back together.

This is testing my patience - not wanting to fix what isn’t broken, I’ve replaced the diaphragm washer on the Siamp fill valve (cleaned the existing one, but it was still sometimes slow to fill). Didn’t touch or change anything else, but now the cistern will sometimes continue to fill until it...

If I had one… Ordered a new one from Amazon, was getting limescaled and sticky anyway.

Put a smear of LS-X around the flush cone, it was only slightly, possibly, damp when adjusted. Bought a new Thomas Dudley flush valve, but the cable was too short, so, upon further investigation, this was the button issue - not sure if it was supposed to have a terminal on the end of the wire:

Thanks again, all - I’ll order new valves and try to get them out via the opening, rather than have to remove both the cabinets/units. It’s really only access that’s the issue. I’ll have a look at fitting a new flush cone.

I suspect you might just be able to remove the whole flush valve via the access panel, I can’t get my hand in far enough to release the cable at the bottom of it. Loo is leaking via the flush pipe at the loo end, seems to be fitted just with putty/mait.

Lever on cable is stuck in the button-depressed position. No amount of jiggling is freeing it. It’s a Siamp unit - do they pull off?

Bloody thing is now leaking from under the loo bowl somehow, but I can’t see or hear where. Only at Christmas.

Cable is essentially not returning the little white plastic lever for the button to actuate it. I think the cable assembly is friction fit, but I can’t get to it adequately to pull at the flush valve end

Button appears fine, cable assembly locks onto it fine - but the little white plastic lever it depresses in the button end of the cable assembly is staying down. Assume the cable is somehow stuck in the flush position, although the actual flush valve is closing. Cable assembly doesn’t appear to...

Had a problem with a toilet cistern filling only when a cold tap was run - played with the (Siamp) fill valve washer cover, and it seems to be fine - maybe a bit of limescale. In the process of putting the fascia board back on, the flush cable appears to be stuck. There’s no resistance to, or...

Mortar on the reverse of the tiles to seal the gaps when there’s no felt.

There isn’t, and putting it in is going to be a bigger pain than insulating the roof. Imagine I’ll end up doing both.

Yes, I get that - having the wind whipping through the attic has made the house cool down much more quickly upstairs than with the old torching in place.

No, but the rooms underneath were cold before, and are even colder now - and to insulate the attic floor would be reasonably involved due to layout, joist depth etc.