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Summerhouse not tall enough to make any sort of link to the existing guttering

Hi Planning on putting a summer house into a small garden. It will be approx 4m away from the house. Thinking of drainage for rainfall. I could let it drip onto the ground but don’t really fancy puddles during heavy rainfall. Was thinking of adding guttering and a water butt, water stored to...

Really don't want it that high. One side - the one I'm trying to tidy up -isn't having patio next to it, so I need to do something as it will be on display to some degree.

If I did that it would raise the ground level further towards the DPC - it would probably end about 1 inch below it at the house. I'm trying to keep it as low as possible Patio needs sub base; I could perhaps put a mortar bed onto this footing but again.. 50mm mortar + 20mm slab probably would...

Hi all I have an old extension, 60s house, 70s suspected extension. I think it is on a 'raft' foundation. You can easily dig under this 'footing' all around the extension and it isn't very deep. It's about a brick thick, and it starts one brick below the house DPC. I aim to do a patio around...

I haven’t updated this post as I haven’t been using it so much and was so annoyed with it. Had a power flush of the system, no difference. Some dads had their thermostats and lock shields the wrong way around, ie flow return. I’ve swapped those around to see if that helps. Then been advised to...

Yes standard sized house, upstairs rads are about 1.5m above the boiler but difference distences away.

I did once and not much success but I’ll try again when we’re using the system again..

Unsure, perhaps getting caught somewhere, or some sort of reaction started in the system that generates a gas?

Even when covered with carpet? In my hallway I have tiles, am I causing issue there with no additional DPM? Ie removed thermoplastic and put down ceramic tiles

I’ve returned the hardwood and gone with uc4 incised sleepers. I’m going o set them on bed of gravel so water can drain out the bottom. Backfill with gravel for drainage. Damp proof membrane along the back at the top, above the gravel, with soil on top. Hoping it means less water gets only the...

Dang, I thought hardwood would outlast regardless. Seems like I’ve misjudged some things here..

Hello yet again. Almost at the point of putting in hardwood sleepers to serve as a ‘retaining wall’ against dirt. More cost effective and easier than masonary. I’d like to treat them still with something to prolong life, especially where they are in ground contact. However I’d like to be...

Oh wow, had not considered that. That’s going the extra mile. I’m not at the coast and it’s all relatively sheltered so hopefully wouldn’t need that, but I like the idea for the gate fixings at least. Any risk of them rusting and compromising the concrete?

Thanks. Is it a 9ft post overall? What do you mean by extra concrete and stay bars? The posts have an additional bar diagonally supporting them from the ground? It’s probably one of those things that’s fine in most instance and then a pain in another..! More risk.

I’m hoping to avoid the rebar. Some have holes in the middle already so either I can use those, or the holes hopefully suggest that there is no rebar running at that point in the post..

Hi all. Hopefully my last questions for a while. -concrete fence posts. They’re expensive, but I’m seeing cheap ones on Facebook but some look rough. I assume there is differences in quality and longevity. What are the signs of good posts? Lock timber yard sells ‘dry cast’. Is dry cast...

That’s makes perfect sense.. areas of my floor have no tiles or bitumen and I never see any evidence of damp in those areas at all so I’m sceptical that I need DPM layer but I’d rather have it and not need it than have the reverse issue..

No worries, thanks. This correlates with my instinct on the matter.. it’s not really enough to cause concern.