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Is the system pressure normal and the automatic air vent new? They're only cheap so its worth getting a new one. I had a funny one with my airvent, I changed it for new and noticed it came with a plastic tap sticking out of the bottom which i puzzled over not sure if it was to be left in or...

So the furthest away first, like if the pump was weak. I guess if the system is full of air the aerated water will leave the pump with less force, like spongy brakes in a car with air in the system, the bubbles compress so the forward momentum is lost. The pump will also mash up the air into...

when i said how long left i mean in terms of the air being small bubbles how long the system has been off to allow the air to rise to the top and form a normal single air bubble at the top. If its all day and the air stays suspended in the water that must be a symptom of something specific as...

How long have you left the boiler off for the air to settle and rise to the top? Curious why the air might be staying in small bubbles, looking it up seems like inhibiter can do that on purpose to stop large pockets of air forming. if you tried a new inhibitor maybe flush and try with none...

I don't wire wool the pipe shiny like i would for soldering, the original finish is nice and smooth and I always use a smear of jointing compound because why not. Then a good bit of force to tighten, I've never managed to cause a leak by over tightening so tend to just go for it with normal...

I've just taken an open vented tank out today and realized it can also vent pressure back up the inlet, i guess thats true in these unvented systems as well? Plus temp can't get beyond the gas boilers output as you're getting at I guess. The sludge in the bottom of this tank was disgusting...

hmmm boringly might not be a compression fitting on the end maybe just a cap. If the arm works a rubber washer onto a seat than water must just be dropping out the bottom before the arm as the rest seem to. do any have a way to attach a pipe to the bottom outlet or are they just plain holes...

I've got a regular noisy part 2 float valve filling the attic cold water storage tank. The tank is just above a bedroom of course and quite noisy due to pressure and water dropping when filling. So I was looking at part 1 float valves and can't figure out whats wrong with them. This one looks...

definite signs of previous DIY...

Is it right to have mains cold in bathroom for sink and cistern where the hot will be from the combi and tank fed cold for en suites cistern and basins including teeing off for the under sink heaters? i'm quite lucky that the mains cold already passes under where the family bathroom will be...

Its just the family bathroom shower and tap and kitchen sink from the combi. 2 en suites electric showers. When we moved in the heat loss from this tank was so much the bedroom where its boxed into the corner was uncomfortably hot, the electric emersion was on and we've never used it since. Just...

the system now heats indirectly from central heating and is mostly under 60 degrees which might be a health risk. to heat it with electric wasteful as wont be used much and heat will be lost from tank. will be one family bathroom direct hot from boiler. 2 en suite bathrooms can have under sink...

bath!?!? haven't seen one of those in a while

I really dont want a cylinder just for 2 taps as dont need it for anything else. that said if i take away the space for the cylinder might regret it if gov forces some system which makes cylinder essential like with heat pump

still i think for long term i'll run a wire and make sure i have a spare point on the consumer unit to change to electric shower one day at this point its easy to do

That makes more sense as washing up with no hot water isn't really tenable either. I'm turning the back room where the boiler is into a workshop and will have an electric spur suitable for welding, so actually I can make sure the juice is enough for a high power heater as well, but probably...

I had a brief look at reviews and got the impression that weaker ones wouldn't give more than a dribble of tepid water. Have you tried a 2kw one? TBH though as we need a consumer unit doing anyway and floors are up in room above it its only the price 5m of cable and a slightly bigger consumer unit

Being a belt and braces guy I'm wondering about fitting both in one. Is there any reason to do or not to do? Any solution I should know about other than having an electric unit weirdly near a mains one to confuse guests? There will be a couple of electric showers in en-suites in the house so as...

honestly we were in two minds about taking out the whole en-suite and having a bigger bedroom. They only added en-suites because it was a guest house and every room has one regardless of if it was really suitable for it. The ones we're keeping are just about and its nice to have so... But can't...

The house is a full internal renovation job so i can't really say it predates the regs and that wont help if someone wants to buy to rent. Its not that we'll never used it, my wife will, but i'll have a 2 lever mixer that is actually clearly marked with hot and cold, it wont be set to hotter...