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We have locked some panels but the boy with the customers consent. Especially with rented properties. You are supposed to have customers consent has always been my understanding.

Panels are obsolete you may get some new old stock units knocking about if you want to keep it the same as your used to.

i would check the board for signs of damage, it’s a little low. Might be repairable however if you can’t do that yourself then it’s probably not worth getting someone to repair for you. Not sure if you would get away with a new battery, you might.

The battery leads coming out of the panel test at ?

i would disconnect the battery and see if things improve. I would also check the pcb for component failure burn marks which can occur. Multiple threads on here with pictures to help guide you.

So dip 2 and is N1,E2 not N1 E1

Is there any other expanders on the system. I would set 32XP-W on a 48 to address 1 and you start wireless zones at zone 9, as address 2 you start wireless zones at address 17

4321 is the default user code which is crazy to be using but that’s a separate issue. The unit has to be either faulty or grossley misprogrammed. Out of interest what zone was shown as activating the alarm. It’s common for people to do 1234 prog 1234 prog and set zone 2 to a fire zone which...

The question is what wired where and how far you want to disassemble. as that determines what happens

You seem nervous and need detailed instruction. The problem is we can’t give detailed instruction without detailed information. but to remove the panel is different to make the panel inactive. To remove the panel from the wall you will have alarm cables and a power cable. The power cable...

you need a professional I think to do this safely. Your answers/posts concern me.

If you pull the fuse what happens. you can always push the fuse back in if a problem occurs

if you pull the fuse out of the fused spur do you loose the alarm panel and or the smokes?

No idea. What the system is ADT use various systems. Picture of panel/ keypad may shed some light on the subject. Suspect the issue is resistors in the original contact and no resistors in the contact now being used. The panel in use will give us an idea of what the resistor values are likely...

possibly but need to know what it’s showing. Ie ssid matching that on the unit. If it is it should be a case of defaulting it. If it’s showing something else then a different route is required.

This to be either getting it wrong, or not reset or the password on the unit is wrong. There was an installer in Doncaster for example where the SID of the Unit didn't match the SSID being broadcast and had to get the info from Texecom. If you get no joy then it needs looking by Texecom...

If you can’t reset the unit connect via Ethernet cable. Log into the cloud account and see if an update is available, not sure what options are available other than upgrade or reboot off top of my head. If option not available. Then remove the smart com cable smart com and wait 20 seconds and...

No idea. Pm me as have some questions but you can’t answer them in public. I may have a better idea after that.

Have you tried one of the Facebook groups for engineers? We don’t have any codes other than the ones we put in a system.

lol it’s not as straight forward as it’s the same. You would need to ask John Gildert on The Texecom forum about how they work for a detailed accurate information. But yes I have used the smart coms com ip for HA. However I haven’t for any length of time without having Texecom connect turned...