Search results

Hi we do a lot of modern renders, and i also teach for a co that make decorative renders, we have done small boundry walls up to large a Travelodge and Premier inn, loads of pics and refrences, drop me a pm if you would like a chat

I personally would not use lime in a scratch coat , as it can affect the performance of some water proofing additives, but that's my personal opinion but the volumes that roughcaster has suggested are ok, but then again i would use a 6:1:1 sand/cement/lime mix in my top coat and no additives...

Depends on what render your wanting to apply , ie traditional , pre bagged ocr or monocouche etc

Being an older 30's house the ceilings are more than likely lime plaster on lath with horse hair or similar mixed in , difficult to tell from the pics, i would personally just over board the ceilings and skim , but at the end of the day it's your decision as to whether you get em checked for...

Just use a monocouche colour through render, much quicker, cleaner and looks better imho

Don't know where you get your SBR from but mine is definitely diluted in water, at the end of the day the wrong product was used , and yes there is a barrier there but nothing will stick to it!!, fix a membrane over it and save your self some trouble

to be honest i don't think using sbr and cement as a "spatterdash" will help you out of this situation, as far as i am aware Thompsons is silicone suspended in a solvent, so this will repel any thing that you apply that is water based, either create a really good mechanical key (grind out all...

Heres a system we did on a travelodge that was timber framed and clad in aquapanel, renderd in sm700 with fibreglass mesh then topped in silicone grade conni s, very flexible system [/img]

Not known any of em to back up a guarantee yet , they always blame it on a construction/design/build / applicator issue, never ever their fault or faulty product, but there are better systems out their and you may want to consider using a render carrier board rather than eml and using a high...

Just showing what his/her options could be , just as you did

This is paint technology mate nothing like plaster, normally prime the render then apply as tight as possible and rub up with a plastic float as soon as it starts to cure ( temperature,humidity dependant)

Even realistic looking stone work off any type or colour http://youtu.be/DdbTUQ5zUrg[/youtube]

Loads of effects can be re created

If the render is solid and unpainted the you you could use a polymer modified base render with a mesh re enforcement and top in whatever decorative finish you desire, wether it's a modern flexible acrylic, pebble dash or brick effect like the following the last pic is of...

There are a number off products available to you such as weber, marmorit, parex etc etc if you do us a mono then put alkaline resis mesh in the first pass if your worried about cracking, also if used around a planter you may wish to consider tanking it also. But your quote is slightly higher...

yep, one layer of fireline is equiv to two x 9.5mm board, but always double cheque with bc to confirm that they are satisfied,

the wire binding is what we used to do when we were bonding out any borded sections, the bonding adherers to the wire which is mechanically fixed to the beam noggins in case off fire and does not fall off onto unsuspecting members of the public, but that spec is a bit old hat , just use 12.5mm...

If it said gypsum on the back then it was plasterboard mate, you should be safe :?

is this what you mean http://www.marmorit.co.uk/products/render-finishes/conni-s.php

yes you can dot your boards on as normal, but you will have to add some secondary mechanical fixing (approx three mushroom type hammer fixings per board) and there is no problem fixing them to the ceiling with screws, and you can get them up to a 105mm long for board fixing