Search results

Wessex has an odd/high profile You can get a continuous dry verge that should accommodate the profile Individual dry verge units may look/prove challenging to achieve cosmetic beauty Mortar bedding again is challenging for a novice but is desirable It depends on how the verge tile is...

Type dry bonding gutter into Google and tell me if it's the same as what you have

Horse hair or 1f? On a serious note klober permo is my preference but I know every tiler has their own.

Both I'm afraid. it's obstructing the true run of the valley but I suppose if it's not broke don't fix.... The existing mortar at the eaves has already failed so it's more a question of when rather than if it needs replacing

How long is the gully How wide is the gully Code 6 lead I'm assuming minimum 450 wide is expensive Expansion joints are expensive Underlay is expensive You may lose X amount of slates Oxy acetaline is used Waste passed through your window and carefully carried through your house is a pain...

Valley is kinked at the bottom depending on preference notch the fascia or cut a few inches before it meets the fascia and chuck a saddle in there a 500lx450w code 4 I prefer saddles only because it doesn't bother the existing gutterline

Cosmetics may well be the least of your worries looking at the bond on your eave course? I don't want to alarm you but it's full of errors the gauge is stretched beyond belief

Struggling to find words for that thing in the picture it's mental

Concrete pan tile Fenland or anglia come to mind If all else fails push two tiles next to each other up remove the tile underneath these and there may be a manufacturer's name on the back of the tile.

You don't need a soaker with a profiled tile like yours You appear to be over the highest profile of the tile from what I can make out Is the original flashing turned into the wall it looks suspect

Until you attempt to remove the first ridge who knows what you're up against I've assumed I would be reusing the old tiles before and it come back to bite me You have an attempted dry verge conversion so it might be an easy option Your ridgeline is starting to look like a patchwork quilt so...

4th image you uploaded is this the problem area? Chimneys are like sponges and prone to problems, repointing, weather seal, new flashings flaunchings etc etc may get you out of jail but it's how far you're willing to go It appears you are missing a tile against the chimney and the lead doesn't...

The tilt/fascia is supporting the vent, which is supporting the tray, which is in turn supporting the tile. The order you mention is correct for when you get round to doing it. Make sure you pay attention to fascia height including the vent as if it is too high you compromise the natural plane...

That has been buttered up in the past by one/either of said roofers. If you're attempting to do yourself I'd suggest dentil slips to avoid slump. I'm assuming it's your first ridge line apologies if it isn't but they will ensure your mortar does not drop (within reason) Easy job if you're handy...

Straighter than an comanche arrow that production

100% for imagination with the roof

Weather in Portsmouth isn't too great either pal. I wouldn't advise it to be honest. Do you know the valley width I personally would recommend 450mm minimum with a clear 125mm channel in the centre. It isn't too difficult to strip and number tiles, make good or install sufficient lead valley...

Does the lead valley have a welt/tilt fillet? Out of curiosity what is the pitch of the roof?

Undercloak must sit flush to the barge and box end but assuming you are using eave trays/5u you will have to doctor membrane or leave the eave protection short enough to do this whilst ensuring membrane is under neath the Undercloak.

Yes underneath undercloak. No never behind fascia, you'll have to have a play about with the eave tray and felt to get the undercloak tight to the box end barge but it's achievable. Mortar should be bonded to the undercloak not the membrane (in an ideal world)