Search results

and a hob. I knew someone would say it. That's why I said:

Surely no different than changing it to 10mm² would be.

If you can't see anything perhaps it would be wise to disconnect the socket and make the cable safe then try again. There might be damp insects inside the socket parts. If that doesn't cure it then, from what you say, all that is left is the cable itself.

Not if I understand correctly what you mean but perhaps invisible ingress - or condensation.

Yes, including to the sockets etc. Suspect moisture in one of the accessories leaking current from Line(live) to Earth or Neutral.

You need another 6mm² from the main CU to the cooking appliances.

It might be possible to 'fiddle' the figures to make one 6mm² cable supply everything but it's not really big enough. Possibly - or you need another 6mm² cable for the cooking appliances (possibly 4mm² depending on the cable run but just use 6mm²).

Not unless you disconnect everything else.

Or "charge you more if you don't" - or can't.

That's why the government mandated smart meters; to stop you being so selfish.

Yes, but once the element thermostats have been set (60º) they are never altered; controlled by the length of time set to on. Yes. The particular model depends on whether both elements are on the same circuit or not. I have been retired a while so am not too knowledgeable about the wi-fi...

The elements in the water cylinder will each have a thermostat of their own and timers have been around for ages. Are you sure there is not one fitted already which stops both elements being on together?

The one that was connected to switched live and neutral respectively. Can't tell by looking any more so do you have a meter?

It's alright; he's from Barcelona.

Separate the conductors at mid-point of circuit to see on which side the low reading is. Then keep dividing until you find the cause. Well of course. You are disconnecting the circuit by switching off. Another socket somewhere with something plugged in.

That's clearer. No, of course not. It is not designed for that. You just wanted the receiver to work with what you have. Temporarily disconnect the main switch if you want to. There you go. (y)

Then you are talking about emergency switches; not isolators. Neither being required for an extractor fan.

Good, I think. Would you like to rewrite that? Well, one terminal will be. Like all switches. Have you perhaps got L IN and L OUT the wrong way round?

Yes, It is not a neutral, it is just a blue wire.

Yes.