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Roundup, is glyphosate., the very same, just a manufacturers name, to enable it to be sold at higher markup don't ya know?

Lawnflite (701 rings a bell) - maybe double check later on actual model number... It's old, it's rusty, deck rusted, but it generally does the job eventually. B&S engine is completely reliable. I bought it very second-hand, many years ago. A couple of weeks ago, I got it out for the first cut...

No thanks, I'll stick to my refuel almost anywhere, in an instant, with decent range between - diesel.

You are looking at possibly an amp. Has this ever worked?

They often cast the makers name, into the inner face of the concrete panels.

They look as if they have been made specifically for, or by the garage manufacturer, which leaves you with sourcing from the garage manufacturer (unlikely), or adapting something ready made. Maybe something like this https://www.woodworkersuk.co.uk/cranked-band-and-gudgeon-hinges/ Or something...

Same here, I find I mostly run mine between 1000 and 2000rpm, it's a bit of a monster if I get it to 3000rpm, and leaves any following vehicles way behind. 50+ mpg most of the time, on a run.

I found it on their website, from the model number.

I would suggest your issue is volts drop, basically the resistance of the cable feeding the strike, is so high, the voltage is being lost within the cable itself. That is easily confirmed, if you check the voltage at the source end, when the release is pressed, and it shows an adequate voltage...

Nor me, but occasionally, I like to let it fly. Modern cars, include limiters on the engine speed, so you cannot over-rev the engine. It will not start bouncing the valves, like cars of old. I now drive a modern diesel, with masses of torque, but my first experience of a diesel, decades ago...

What if you then find you need to make an unplanned use of it?

You got a bit of a water leak there..

For years, I have repaired broken plastic parts, using an hot soldering iron, and office staples, just heating them and pushing them in with the iron. Then I saw, they now do a kit for the job, where a large current is passed through a shaped steel wire staple, made for the job, so I ordered...

I got the tractor deck welded, and back on, but it just wouldn't cope with the length, density, and wetness combined - so for the moment, it's parked out there, in the rain, waiting for some drier conditions to complete the first cut of the year.

Which is a 12v dc unit.

Wow! I've never suffered that bad, just the terrific sense of fear, originally because I didn't know what was happening to me, and no one seemed to know, and were ignoring it, making it even worse.

9 radiators here, with a constant head pump - all works absolutely perfectly.

Open vented fires, and air burning appliances, needed some ventilation back in the day. If that need has been done away with, so can the vents. I blocked most of mine up, on both the inner, and outer leaf, years ago - they can be very wasteful of heat. Sometimes, and if it builds up, it can...

It could be ac, or dc, suiting both. Test it on both, if it works, it works.

I think they will work with either a 20mm knockout, or a 20mm threaded steel coupling.