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Last question, is there a solvent based alternative? My fear is that the compression nut may not have enough clearance between the pipe and the wall.

Is this what I need? MCALPINE T23U MULTIFIT BLANKING PLUG WHITE 40MM (https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-t23u-multifit-blanking-plug-white-40mm/96079)

Any ideas on how I deal with the waste pipe? If I cut it down to below 120mm so it slots behind the dishwasher, then how to blank it off? Currently it has a screw cap.

Makes sense. Thanks.

Open to suggestions!

In my previous home I had a long waste extension that ran across the floor (behind the cupboards) and then up into the secondary spigot at the sink and I never thought anything of it. There was never an issue, that I was aware of. But as you get a bit more knowledgeable with DIY you begin to...

Weird how they left it without a waste. Sink spigot and longer hose seems to be for the win. Though regards hose up high to spigot - I agree it makes sense, but is it? If the waste outlet at the back of the appliance is at the rear bottom then whether it gets pumped low and then up into spigot...

"How wide is the unit space? Is it tight to 600mm? If there was extra width space then the waste could be run to the left then upwards to create a stand pipe. Normally a full sized freestanding D/W is ~ 600mm deep, so even with it tight to the wall, without any pipes it will be extending 60mm...

I get where you're coming from. I didn't get a chance to tackle this today, but will do so tomorrow and update. Thanks for your input ;)

You mean this? "To the left of the waste are the pipes coming up from the floor to the combo-boiler." I do have a spare spigot at the waste under the sink which is adjacent, but I didn't mention that but you've given me an idea to just extend the waste hose from the appliance to under the sink...

I need both the waste and the water pipe, but I will be able to work around and adapt the Hep pipe as needed. With the waste being more a fixed object it was that that was my concern. Sorry that I wasn't clearer in my original post.

I agree. I'll give a go tomorrow and see how I get on. Thanks for all the help and advice. Much appreciated.

Would a wago box be required if the connectors managed to be located at the back of the light fitting and not into the ceiling? Be some hole to make for a wago box.

Yeah. Amazon! Fitted two before in my old home with just a little struggle. Good for the money.

No it just has a terminal block for live and neutral and limited space for much else. I may have to cut into the ceiling plasterboard a little for wagos. So correct me if I'm wrong (most likely): 4 browns on left into a 4 way wago 4 earths into a 4 way wago 2 blues + grey (on the right) + blue...

Hi guys, I removed a kitchen unit that was designated for an additional appliance. I intend to install a full-size dishwasher and whilst the dimensions of the space are correct the waste pipe will push the appliance too far out into the kitchen. To the left of the waste are the pipes coming up...

Hey guys, I want to install a new LED light fitting and require a little guidance with this wiring. This is the wiring into the current light that I will be changing. Using Wagos, I have access to the 4, 3 and 2 way connectors.

Thanks. Theoretically though, as I might just keep the socket, but i still have second bathroom to do, how would you get rid of the socket in this example if a mirror with built in shaver socket was used?

That picture uploaded rotated to the right. The socket is actually below a two-door bathroom cabinet which I will be replacing with an LED mirror. It’s a downstairs bathroom. I took the cabinet off today and chased the wall for the wiring for the mirror. I was just wondering what would be...