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If it had been deemed unsafe by someone who knows ie r.g.i,they would of capped off the gas supply to it.what supplies the central heating?

I can,t see a problem.

Whilst flueless gas fires are perfectly safe when installed correctly,my concern is a future lack of maintanance,how many people actually have thier gas appliances serviced every 12 months,with a flued appliance they are a bit forgiving.The ventillation is imperative do not block it under any...

Should be ok,covering the chase will allow for thermal expansion.

I've fitted loads of biasi boilers ,well priced,only 1 call back to replace a pump,that was after 5 years.

When i,ve done it in past ,i used 22mmx15mm tees ,then 15 mm to 10 mm reducers,I found it reduced the runs of 10mm.

If you have not started why not run the flow and returns in 22mm and the droppers in 10mm[to avoid cutting out the brickwork behind the plaster].plastic coated 10mm is readily available [plaster can corrode copper].I would not use denso, the oils could later stain the plaster.

In my own house all the droppers are in 8mm,the system has been in 30 years although i swopped the boiler last year.I cleansed and treated ,no problems what so ever.

Hi guys, I've just been asked the question ,can you put fernox cleanser in a system already containing an inhibitor unfortunatley the number given on the fernox website is not connecting.

assuming you mean low flow rate at the bath taps,i had the same trouble a while ago,the taps supplied were for a high pressure system,i swopped them for use on a low pressure system,they worked fine.

If your feed and expansion tank is hot with the open vent running you would be wise to replace the pipework because this will oxygenate the system and cause the rads to start leaking.You could try adding a cleanser and mains water flush to keep the cost down[see toms tips on u tube].IF your cold...

the danger you could have is after you introduce air in the system ,is the rads /pump rusting from inside[over a long period].when you fill up don,t forget to replace the inhibitor

[/url] hi Pete,are these battery powered?

Hi Lauri,yes it will work,the pressure is measured from the tank to the outlet[tap].you may get a air lock when you first turn on but it,s easily cleared.

I think the controls are working as designed[rooms stat controlling the heating].the rad stat[ if working] is adjustable[water too hot].the red handled bypass valve needs to be open[try half way].the upstairs rads could be the 2 way valve passing slightly or conduction through the return...

Sounds like an air lock in the pipework[assuming no valves are closed].try either sucking the air out of the tap or putting a mains pressure hose on the tap to force the air lock back into the tank.close the taps you are not using when you try it.

sorry for shouting[computer iliterate]. Thanks for the reply,i suppose i am asking on a complete refurb whether installers are zoning the upstairs and downstairs separately or ignoring the regs and going it old school with room stat and t.r.v,s .I can,t see any savings on the carbon footprint...

HI GUYS,HOW ARE YOU GOING ABOUT ACHIEVING PART L OF THE BUILDING REGS ON REPLACEMENT SYSTEMS,IT SEEMS TO ME A LOT OF WORK/EXPENSE ON A SMALL HOUSE,HOW IS IT POLICED?