Search results

Here's the back of the house. Next door has a corresponding outflow on their side of the fence, which is completely dry underneath. No erosion on the paving under our outflow. We don't have any tanks in the loft. This is our hot water cylinder, on the landing next to the bathroom: I...

It's 32mm. There's nothing on the other side of the wall at that point - the piping that leads to it is inside the wall. It's the back wall of the conservatory - nowhere near a boiler or WC. The conservatory opens off the kitchen, but that part of the wall is diagonally opposite where all the...

Our neighbour asked - very nicely - if we had some kind of outflow on the back of house, because he was seeing water seeping under the fence. I looked behind a large heavy wooden settee thing that hasn't been moved in a couple of years and saw this: It's dripping very slightly, but...

Capacitor is brand new and exact same value as the old one - 450V 1.0uF. And I'm interested to know what could be causing it to *intermittently* suffer starting issues. Although short of stripping the entire motor down, I suspect that won't be easy to ascertain, given that the capacitor is the...

Our floor-standing bedroom fan was displaying the classic symptoms of a bad capacitor, so I replaced it. Unfortunately, that hasn't fixed the problem - or at least, it hasn't fixed it permanently. Sometimes when you switch it on, it will start perfectly normally. Other times, the blades will...

Thanks guys!

We have three rads that remain more-or-less stone cold (and they're full of water, they don't need bleeding) while some others are very hot and others just warm. I've read up on the technique for balancing and the need to make a list of the order in which the rads warm up, because that's the...

Cheers Rob!

Difference of opinion there between durhamplumber and Rob - can I use a generic head, or does it need to be a specific Drayton head? Just looking at the way the heads are advertised, and the reviews people have left on sites like Amazon, it seems like they're universal and intended to be used...

Thanks guys. The knurled ring wasn't loose and pressing down on the head didn't achieve anything, so I unscrewed the ring and took the head off completely. As you can see from the photos, there's green corrosion emerging from under the spindle and the spindle itself is showing surface...

First thing I tried, oddly enough. Doesn't work.

I went to turn a rad back on at its thermostatic valve, and whole white plastic assembly just spins as one piece - both the upper section (the part with the number scale, that's supposed to turn) and the lower "collar" section with the little arrow pointer. You can turn it endlessly in either...

I bought these hose barbs so that I could build a one-man vacuum brake bleeder. They are listed as 1/4" PT male thread, but when I measure across the threaded section, the width is 12.6mm, which is 1/2". So what am I missing here? And do I need to use specific PT thread nuts, or will any 1/4"...

That's an old photo, and the red light isn't actually on. And he was just the guy come to do the annual safety inspection. He wasn't an engineer called in to diagnose the problem.

Boiler is Worcester 14/19 CBi, cylinder is this one:

We just had our annual boiler inspection (unvented cylinder), and we mentioned to the bloke that we've had an ongoing issue with the CH working normally, but no hot water through the taps unless we run the immersion. He had a look, did a test that involved a loud noise in the pipework (I wasn't...

I swapped the stats over at the weekend and the problem stayed the same, so I guess that points to the zone valves? Although I suppose there's still one more thing to try, which would be to replace the button batteries inside the stats (that I didn't know existed until I popped them off the...

It's not, that's the issue. I've been through all the temp/time settings and none of them go higher than 21C. Despite this, if we don't switch the CH off, upstairs will get up to 28C (as happened this morning).

At the risk of sounding stupid, I presume that our CH is multi-zone, hence the ability for the upstairs temp to be controlled independently of the downstairs? This being the case, presumably the stats are hard-wired to their respective zones rather than being assigned through a programming...

Cool, I'll give that a try tonight. There is a battery compartment on the front of each stat, so I'll try new batteries as well.