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Yet another glass shattered, due to differential expansion. These are the tall, plain, cheap drinking glasses. I went through a period, of managing to break several of them. They break cleanly, down at the base, leaving a base, and a glass tube. Av has just managed to break one, in the process...

A simple slip on the keyboard, now corrected!

The good old days! I would walk/hitch all the way from Yorkshire, down and back to Cornwall, I would usually manage it within 30 hours, with a heavy rucksack on my back. My father was on trawlers during the war, mine sweeping.

Yes, it will take some time to mix in the system if you just pour it in the tank, but it will get there. Better though, if you can drop the level a bit first, before adding it, by bleeding water from a radiator, after turning the mains water off, or holding/tieing up the float arm. Even easier...

Inhibitor can be added at a radiator, but quicker/easier to simply add to the loft tank, before the water is turn back on to refill the system. If you have doubts, it's cheaper to simply buy a bottle of inhibitor, and add it, than to test with a kit. Having double the amount in, is not a problem.

Or, maybe not. Some people just cannot be got through to.

Pork chop, apple sauce, green beans, and baby potatoes, with Eton mess, for afters. Smoked haddock, green beans, and more baby potatoes lined up for tomorrow's dinner.

Not if it has value, if it is done just to make an attempt at a free advert, then that is not permitted here.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=967803999108913&set=a.179819944573993

You were well aware, because you re-edited your post, to remove the advert, you tried to slip in..

Your first quote was hyper-expensive, but your latest is even more. Do you live in an especially expensive part of the UK, to demand such high prices for work? Removing the old materials, would be part of doing the job anyway, whether it was as it was originally, or as you find it now. Ask him...

Reported!

Yes, he can refuse, hopefully you have the refusal in writing, and the suggestion that it all needs ripping out - you can then, hopefully, go about recovering the amount you paid in deposit for the work. Have you had a quote from the other guy, to do it properly?

Life is so much simpler, with an ICE.

Since always. Drawn one way, by the DC polarity, there is no spring, so it doesn't fly back, so you just get a ding. Drawn the other way, by the opposit polarity, it is drawn against a spring, which fires it back when the button is released, and so you get the dual ding-dong.

That didn't trun out well :-( I put the sausage in 20 minutes before the batter, then the batter later. The sausage was over-cooked, and I didn't put enough batter in, or maybe it was just too thin. Better luck next time.

Buy yourself a 'voltstick', and learn how to make use of it. They are a very safe way for the unskilled to see what is live and not live, without needing to open things up, or disconnect things.

And on that page, it lists the various models. Click the one (though are all fairly similar), which matches the model of bell/sounder you have. That particular chime, supports two bell pushes, each giving a different chime. Ding, and ding-dong, so you know which has been pressed.

A shared/borrowed neutral, would show up by tripping, the instant the light was turned on which was borrowing - so not that.

I cannot remember much, but I don't remember them changing the pipe. I know my father would never tackle much DIY, and was always wary of gas and electrics, he always got someone in and trusted them to do the job properly. This is the first I have ever heard of copper, not being allowed on town gas.