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Looks like it - although sometimes the wire end snaps inside the insulation. Does any wire feel extra bendy on the end?

It just means that one of the wires between the switches - brown, black or grey - is not connecting from one switch to the other.

Ah. The perfectly obvious at first glance to DIYers diagrams - with only two wires at each light. Much more useful: https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics%3ALighting-Circuit-layouts

Ok. You need switches with a Neutral terminal but then you don't have a Neutral wire at the switch positions so some rewiring would be necessary. It is your equipment that is incompatible with the switches you bought. If you managed to get a Neutral to the hallway switch, there would be...

Yes. I presume you will need two three-way switches to connect and operate the three lights. I wouldn't think you can have two two-way and one one-way on the same switch downstairs.

What light does the other switch operate? The hallway at the bottom of the stairs?

The old two have 6 terminals, 3 on the left and 3 on the right labelled COM, 1WAY and 2 WAY.

Only if you turn off the element. Why, in that unlikely situation will the hotter and hotter water not be less dense than the less hot water in the cylinder? Yes - by turning on the element and by continued heating of the water in the Willis

I am not saying that, no one has, but what if the pipes went up even higher and then came back down to the cylinder, would that not set up a current? However, why would anyone fit a Willis where it is not supposed to go? Anyway - stop wriggling.

No. You need to concentrate on the water that is being pushed/drawn into the Willis' bottom tube, where it comes from and its temperature compared to an immersion element inside the cylinder.

Ok, then the same as an ordinary immersion would be. Of course I do; they are; do you not? They decide where the Willis' heated water goes to and the 'to be heated' water comes from. I really do not understand your difficulty but I am sure you would be much better helped by concentrating on...

Do you mean a Willis with its pipes almost reaching the top and the bottom of the tank or a 'naked' Willis (oooh errr), i.e. just the immersion element like an immersion element?

More to the point is what do you think would happen?

Well, at least we have discovered the reason for your inability to understand the Willis and other hot water systems. Ah! Those people. Have you never lit an open fire or seen a hot-air balloon?

For next time: https://www.screwfix.com/p/self-amalgamating-rubber-tape-black-3m-x-25mm/2115v Read the instructions.

Any good? https://alertelectrical.com/click-deco-ingot-satin-chrome-3-gang-light-switch-grey-insert-vpsc413gy.html

Screw terminals and/or no cable restraints are not classed as MF.

Yes. Yes. Screwing them to the joists and clipping the cable is one way of complying with the modern requirement for cable restraint although not required in the past.

It is not really necessary to clip them. It can be argued that it is better not to. No - you need a "Maintenance free" junction box. One example: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ804.html