Search results

OK, so take the following metrics: The bathroom window vents steam 8 inches away from the soffit, and the underside of the soffit has black mould on it, on the outside, visible from the ground, and is only on that singular part of the entire property. The mould tracks into the space shown in...

Wow, you really didn't even bother to read what I wrote, did you? I'm afraid the random video, that had absolutely nothing at all to do with my problem beyond it being about a roof, failed to provide me a solution or any information about how to treat the presence of black mould in my loft, and...

What level of problem in this if I address it right now, having only just discovered it? Found this a minute ago after discovering the eaves in the house was absolutely full of crap from whenever they did the loft conversion: Have now completely removed this all the way down to the bare...

OK great, it was the only part of the job I was really concerned about. I didn't fancy having to re-strap new joists and have to chase out everything out of the walls if I could avoid it. Hopefully they're in good condition!

Sorry guys, forgive me, I realise I asked the wrong question! What I really mean to ask is - is it possible to reuse the joists from a flat roof and convert to a warm roof? Yes it will be higher by 125mm, that’s all good, yes to redoing the flashing etc, and having to redo the lights etc...

I've got a flat roof in my kitchen extension, with some pitched perimeter pieces and a roof lantern in the middle. If I want to switch to a warm roof, can I just rip the membrane off the roof, pull out all the insulation, then put in a vapour barrier, insulation, OSB, new membrane, tuck in...

Sunray, you're a legend, it works perfectly. I'm so appreciative, I can't thank you enough; you've been brilliant, mate, really - thank you! Now, haha, with that said, if you ALSO wanted to guide me through separating the two remaining switches so they each control their own floors, I'd be so...

Here's the junction box. So I just remove the bottom two cables and then place the remaining black and red cables so each line shares the same terminal?

Thank you so much mate, so just to explain this in layman's terms, could you confirm if this is what you're saying: 1. Open junction box and remove the cables running from that intermediate switch. Terminate the cable using a wago box at one end, and tape at the end where the switch was and...

The doorway has never had a door, I'm putting one in directly in line witht he left hand switch. I am going to leave the right hand switch in place, or chase it out of the wall and move it over slightly if the lining doesn't fit with decent clearance. I don't know how to answer your question...

Sorry, just lifted another floorboard to get a better view of the junction box. It actually has four wires (not two) running into it from the top, which I couldn't see before Here: The wires in the top of the junction box are going left, towards the light switch on the second floor...

Morning guys, I've done some more investigating, and this is what I've come up with. I think this is going ot have a lot of pictures. First, here's a quick shot of the actual doorway with the light switches I want to move: The left switch is the one I want to completely remove (or move...

I'm happy to leave everything except the third switch, to be honest. I just need it to be either out of the way or gone completely, because I need to get a door on my kitchen. All the heat from the fires escapes into it and it's basically a giant heat sink and makes the rest of the house cold...

Hi Sunray, I only have that shot I'm afraid, as I've closed it all back up now. The twi cables enter the backbox from directly above. To be honest, I'm happy with any setup that allows me to just not have to worry about drilling into the wall when I attach the door lining. I want to completely...

Damn, I knew it wouldn't be simple. So frustrating. In which case, how feasible is it to just chase the cable out the wall and re-route the chased ables into a new chase so that I can just put the doorframe in place? Obviously the zone would change slightly, but I presume I can just channel...

Sorry, I should say, the second two switches are two gang that control different lights elsewhere in the house, but the one I want to remove is only 1-gang

This is the wiring for the one I want to remove: This is the second light switch on the same floor: And this is the third light switch on the second floor: They all turn off the lights on the first and second floor hallways at the same time with no independent control of either floor

Make one inoperable and something I can just plaster straight over. I have to put a door lining where the switch is, so it's not possible to blank it off. I'm hoping I can just remove the wire between it and whatever switch it's connected to and just terminate either end.

I'm looking to remove one of the switches from a three way light circuit. Any advice would be appreciated. I can test lines, work safely, etc, I understand basic electrics, but three way switches, or even two way switches are not something I'm entirely confident with. Am going to be doing...

Alastairreid Cheers mate, that worked a treat!