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Got a 4x2 CLS stud wall to insulate, board, skim etc. Will use the rockwool acoustic/rwa45 slabs/knauf acoustic slabs. The 100mm size of these will just about manage in the 89mm space, right? While since I’ve done it. I’ll pack out with strips of plasterboard if not.

Plasterboard/cement board/asbestos. Gut feel is not plasterboard as the paper face tends to go brown over the years, and just looks more like cement/aib type thing to me. If plasterboard, inside bit might feel fairly soft/chalky compared to cement/aib. Nails were dead common until whenever...

You don’t need a vapour barrier on a party wall. Whether you need one on the external walls may be up for debate, but from what I understand/can see, if I was doing it, I’d staple one up before adding the plasterboard.

Not sure what you mean by concrete slabs and concrete studs, but if it’s a party wall, forget vapour barriers or thermal insulation and focus on dense acoustic rockwool stuff.

You could try, just make sure it’s not near a joint which could break and cause an involuntary drain down… At a push could also just remove rad and work around the pipes and make good when it does get redone

pretty unlikely, better doing it properly and re-piping it. And surely you want to be moving it out more than 2cm based on the above?

Foam gaps - yes Shave PIR - I wouldn’t, as I said above, just do it in such a way as that’s not needed

Assume that’s a timber frame with block infill? There’s loads of ways you could do it, could start again with a 2x2 frame with say 50mm PIR behind it and screwed through into the existing studs. Then another 50mm layer between the new battens. That’d be pretty easy but lose you at least 100mm...

If space, to make a noticeable gain I’d deffo go with more like 50-100mm PiR, framed/trapped to existing battens/masonry with battens then normal plasterboard rather than bothering with insulated board. Edit: just zoomed in on the photos, what the hells going on with that blockwork !

Pink fireline plasterboard? If so, use bugle headed drywall screws. Rather worrying that any screws have “fallen out” which shouldn’t happen in a million years. Maybe post a pic to confirm

Either stick/dab 9.5mm/12.5mm boards on nice and tight, or glue and bonding coat then skim, or a bonding/skim mix. How deep the artex pattern is will dictate whether you need to put bonding on it. If it’s not deep, pva and skim. If deep, bonding first. Always a slight risk of whole lot falling...

Are you talking about an opening in an existing house wall which is going to be too big for a conservatory which is going to replace an existing wooden structure? Sketch may help.

One of the key characteristics of cavity bats is they supposedly don’t wick moisture. But they don’t tend to get used below dpc much, tend to just start them sat on the cavity ties at dpc level. Then perimeter PIR to reduce thermal bridging.

I’ve got that too and it’s great. But it isn’t going to do this one easily.

I’m imagining trying to do this even with the heaviest (back breaking) kango I’ve used, and I think I’d be a complete nightmare/impossible. And back breaking due to the fact it’s underground and surrounded presumably by earth. Does it have to go, given it’s buried underground? Are you wanting...

The hire place will recommend one if you tell them what it’s for. But that sounds a big job for any hand held one. Mine have what they call a “road drill”, proper low frequency percussion heavy upright thing. Your job is deffo beyond the scope of any of the smaller SDS max type kangos I’d say

that looks like cement/backer boards, which would normally be tile adhesive’d and screwed down onto ply/timber/chipboard. If so, the screws don’t indicate joist positions as they only go into the subfloor not the joists.

Sounds fine

I reckon deep window reveals look good! Like an old stone walled cottage. But yeah as above, sounds potentially not necessary in the first place

Yeah, plug a load of mortar in. Those first courses are often a lot of adjustment from a concrete foundation that’s not bang on level, to get it spot on where it’s seen above ground. But should still have full perps and no gaps.