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I sand and cement rendered mine, never cracked in 10 years, I like the subtle look and clean edge against the plaster.

While I agree plonking walls on floorboards isn’t great generally, I can’t really see the downside in this context. It’s all glued down and never coming up anyway so just forms a single structure.

And if doing a), cut back the bonding along the bead aris a little bit before skimming

As above, but I’d personally always do a). Slightly better job imho, can get the bead bang on plumb at that stage and not rely on dubbing out a skim bead

Or cut a bit of batten a couple of inches longer than the hole, fix it across the top of the hole either by glueing or a couple of screws up into it, then screw the piece onto it

Birdsmouth? They can look alright, but that one looks like it’s such a wide angle that you end up with those unsightly bed joints. Probably how it’s meant to be done tho.

Can’t see any harm just stud walling over the boards. Can still have their expansion gaps at the perimeter etc and less cuts/gaps to foam. Assuming the t&g boards are fixed to the joists not floating on an insulation layer

Yeah, normally whoever’s fitting it prices in dropping a liner down as part of the job

It may be either way, but if it’s still trapped, so there’s no air flow between left and right, as @Hugh Jaleak says, you’re ok. I thought it wasn’t, but probably got that wrong.

Yeah, and the bottle gulley may not be needed?

Ok to bed the gulley on pea gravel and the end bit of the aco, but if that’s a soil pipe on the right, won’t you get smells coming up from the aco? I think those 2 way bottle gulleys will only trap the middle part as it’s got the dip tube and the trap level sits below both horizontal pipes. May...

The way it’s been done isn’t necessarily wrong, as said, it’s just more of a pain as the outer beam has to be protected/wall has to be re-finished around it and made to look right. Potentially better approach is to have a flat plate for the outer skin, then the outer masonry just sits on that...

You could chuck more gravel down, but if whole thing isn’t on a decent compacted sub base (suggests it’s not when you say the gravel’s being pushed down into a softer base) you’ll continue to have issues. Proper job is to remove existing gravel, see what the base is, if it’s not solid like at...

Exp foam isn’t appropriate to stop water ingress. How’s the beam on the outer skin protected from the elements? Normally you’d have a beam on the inner and a flange on outer welded to it

Hygroscopic salts are fairly common on chimney breasts, which’d need a different system to the bonding and skim. Maybe dehumidifier for a few more weeks and if no change likely needs a rethink for that bit.

Good shout, but

This one’s AI, if you look at its post in GD also. Joined the forum today. Mods, please delete…

They wouldn’t be directly fixed to the brick/block though. They’d be on whatever the substrate to be skimmed was. As they’re only skim beads. So board, or backing plaster (hardwall, bonding, render etc)

Stitch it away with a masonry (SDS) drill. 6mm ish bit, lots of holes, then a chisel to break it up