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Regulations in North America NOW require that a Neutral connection to be "available" at each lighting Switch Point, in case a Neutral connection at that point is ever required in the future for any new Device - such as some "Intelligent" Dimmers. It my be that the original installer was aware...

As I wrote, in Post #13 :- "The single (Black) conductor "Cable" seems to go nowhere (except to a Loop terminal on the Switch) and does nothing !?!?! One wonders, who wired this up in this manner - and why?" It serves no purpose, as it is. It is connected to the Loop terminal at the Switch and...

Diagram of changes required is attached. I apologize that my printer is having a "problem" and the printout was somewhat blurred.

NOT as in either Post #14 or #15 . In BOTH cases that is switching the Neutral ! The correct connections were given in Post #13. (connect the single (Red) conductor "Cable" (at the ceiling) to the fitting's Line conductor, (Brown) connect the Neutral (Black) conductor of the incoming Line...

Just tested my vacuum cleaner. At switch-off the motor spins for about 5 seconds, which is hardly enough time to bend down and extract the plug - let alone getting to feel the pins 1

If you are "concerned" about drawing too much current, after each "use", immediately withdraw the plug of any "high-current" device and feel if either or both the Line and Neutral pins are appreciably warm They will be "somewhat" warm, but it should not be excessive. If they are equally mildly...

That "part" seems to be a 12 V Power Supply for 20 W to 60 W Halogen lamps. (At least, that is what is written on it - although you (annoyingly) posted the photo sideway!.) Is that Power Supply supplying all three sensor lights? If so (and only two have failed) it is unlikely to be that Power...

Why do you post pictures "upside down"? It may not be a "Current Transformer" but it is an existing transformer. (Presumably, the new [non halogen] luminaire !) The label on the nameplate of this indicates that this "device" has an "Input" of 240 V 50 Hz - hence no transformer is needed...

Presumably, by "PS" you mean a PlayStation console. (Abbreviations should aways be explained - for the benefit if the "ignorant".) A PlayStation Console is just a "box", which needs to sit on a shelf/table/floor, be "powered" and connect to a "display", via a HDMI connection. (Other connecting...

Here is a picture of a typical Bittern Holder and its "connections". https://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/Electrician/images/BattenHolder.gif In this picture, only the two "horizontally pictured" terminals connect to the Bayonet Spring Terminals. The green circled Earth terminal is just...

I find that both amusing and annoying. Our main "Big Box" store sells Twin and Earth 2.5 mm cable by the metre, at $3.02 per metre (https://www.bunnings.com.au/olex-2-5mm-nexans-2-core-and-earth-cable-1m_p4430080?srsltid=AfmBOoowP9sZyQFO1TRQky8jqS1MUnKjJvPzpIbzCBbYPE9zx0GIMn5G ) However, they...

Photos 2 and 3 appear to show that you have one cable with 4 conductors, two Red one Black and one Green/Yellow plus a cable with a single Black (Neutral) conductor. (Please confirm or correct.) The terminal diagonally opposite the Black (Neutral) bayonet contact pin conductor's terminal will be...

You have somewhat lost me with all of this. There are three Photos. 1 - a "mess" of wires and connectors 2 - a batten holder with Line (Red), Neutral (Black) and Earth (Green/Yellow) cable connected plus a single (Black) Neutral conductor. 3 - a batten holder with a Cable with two Red insulated...

I agree with bernardgreen. While you should not use yourself as a test device, nest time that you receive such a shock (when you touch the wet plaster), stand perfectly still - do not move your feet - and touch the plaster again. If the second time you touch the wet plaster you receive no...

I suggest that you TEMPORARILY short-circuit the thermal cut-out, to see if the heater "operates" for longer than the few seconds that it now does and that the "elements" then start to heat. Do not carry out the test for longer than about 30 seconds but, if the "elements" do start to heat, you...

The BEST idea, as I have remarked before, is to install a Security Light plus an independent PIR Sensor controlling it. Then, when ONE of them fails you need to replace only that item - possibly, with a better one.

I apologize in advance for this Post. However, the instruction to "Push Down" before you "Pull pretty hard" reminded me of the instruction given by Anna Russel in her treatise on "How to Enjoy Your Bagpipe" wherein (between 4:05 and 4:40) she enjoins one to "Twiddle Before You Push" with a...

Outside? From where. (More information is required.) Well, NO. (In my experience, 300 Ohm Ribbon TV cable never looked like that.) It is a cable with a "single Insulated" pair of conductors. which has been allowed for use only on Extra Low Voltage installations (such as "Speaker Cables") for...

and yet G10 lamps were originally "Twist-lock 120 or 230-volt MR16 halogen lighting of 35/50 watt" Now they are also supplied as 120 or 230-volt LED lamps. "GU10" lamps are deliberately made with pins which will not fit into (other) "G" - 12 V sockets - and vice versa. Cables under boards -...

Whatever those two Junction Boxes in the 1st photo are doing, they should both be fixed to a Ceiling Joist, or some other solid timber and NOT be just "floating in space". Also, what is that "telephone cable" or "bell wire" doing? It looks as though it is going into the white "Junction Box"...