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And where do we stand on the fact that the 1.5mm flex is only 1 meter long, in free air. Does that still mean it needs a 16A MCB John? Also consider that the conductors are doubled up in this case. (only at one end though). 1 driving 2 'hot plates' and 1 driving the other pair. Yes, if you get...

Now it’s done, leave it alone. Common for t&e to be used I think bnq sell the flex

I’m aware of one brand to avoid. Need to look it up.

Can ppl recommend shower (inbuilt heater) brands to use and those to avoid in terms of reliability please. I think I want one to run off 6mm Thanks

You don’t need to crimp them. It’s usually how it’s done when it leaves the factory though. (So maybe why it’s in the manual )

OP. I know it sounds crazy! But just connect it up. It’s common for hobs to come with 5 or 6 core flex. As said, made for Euro spec, but can also be used in UK.

bet the Scottish wish their winters got near 50°C

Yes. That is probably the proper way. I note there are some spare holes in the bottom by the white wires. You maybe able to push wires in there (but not remove them in a hurry ) Some /most would call that a bodge. I would call it more reliable as there are less joints.

The easy way is to find the last light with only 1 cable and run from that

When I previously asked, it wasn't a problem. Just need to ensure the cpc is thick enough to cope with the biggest cable/circuit

You maybe able to use the rose as a junction rather than buy expensive wago

If it is, I think we are only talking about 10 years.

I'm not sure that 6mm is tinned. Anyway, it's metric cable, and green/yellow sleeve. So sometime after 1974 The fact is has 30ma, points to 80's

Exactly as sunray says. Also in modern insulated houses I have a ceiling and fan light combined. With this I prefer not to have this in a 2 way setup. So I know off really means off. (Rather than being off via the remote control) Defo run 3c&e to the switches. I wouldn’t put an intermediate...

Well I decided only one light needed to be 2 Way. (Ceiling or bedsides). So I just made the bedsides 2 way. Anyway. The principle is the same. To make a second switch you run a 3c and E to the other switch. Sockets goto the junction box.

Seams too much extra work to me that you may need an extra N at the second switch ! For me I would be putting in a single socket either side of the bed, and extra switch wires by bed and door. So you can have some nice bedside lights switched from multiple locations. And you will be very...

probably "joined" under the junction box It keeps all those bare wires away from harm

regardless whether is a "new" or "old" layout, best thing to do is run 3C+E between the switches. If you are going to replace the switch drop, leave it long enough to reach a ceiling rose.

What are you trying to achieve ? 2 switches to control the light Or a neutral at the switch because of some smart system ?

It's an intermediate, (as it says on the rear). These have 4 wire connections. You need to reconnect that 4th wire, that will be why it isn't fully working. So to replace you switches I think you need 2 gang 2 way and a 1 gang INTERMEDIATE