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thats clearly just a problem with how they end. They need to taper out gradually and be relatively more flexible at that end, so that there isn't a sudden, sharp change in the cable's flexibility, but a gradual gradient im starting to feel like i need to actually design one now....

no i can see a clear purpose for it, they are there to prevent the cable from bending at an overly sharp angle, which would pinch and stretch opposite sides of that bend The resistance they provide forces the bending to be spread out across a larger section of cable, at a much shallower angle...

so it is! Thats 15% less, pretty decent, thank you! but i'm not really expecting personal shoppers to go around and compare prices for me :P I was more hoping that folks here might have used different products for the same problem (priming plastic) and can recommend their favourite primers so...

I don't, of course. Its a belt sander though, it gets moved around a lot and cables flex Sure, dismantling and reassembling it is in the near future. But the little rubber boot on the end there is supposed to prevent exactly this situation. And it completely fails at its job. I want to chuck...

Ah, "strain relief boot" seems to be what the one without slots in it is called Yes those are godawful and everything that uses them breaks right at the end, its utterly terrible. I want to get rid of that thing and replace it with something that will ACTUALLY spread strain out slotted ones at...

I'm painting plastic windowframes again! Last year, i bought a pot of this stuff, applied that and then painted after it dried https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DSLRV462 It worked fantastically, and i still have half of it left. Very happy with the product Now i need to do a double window, so the...

just to clarify, that pic isnt mine, its just a random screenshot i took of a video where i saw the thing i wanted but yes it is, thats a moulded plug with a plastic earth pin, does nothing but open the socket hatches. I've just finished replacing one exactly like it

fray is probably the wrong word, i dont know the right term for it. The outer sleeve wearing away is the main issue and as Opps says in the post above, the problem is more often happening where it enters the tool, than at the plug. Though it does happen at plug end too and i feel like a lot of...

oh a related question, how would i actually attach these things? Presumably the thick end has to be affixed to the plug/device somehow, is that just a matter of using glue? or some kind of special solvent? or would they just stay in place naturally with friction?

thank you, that is helpful!

bruh great that you have such wonderful skills at doing your thing. But i didn't see you offering to come fit my doors for me. Or for that matter, posting the solution I AM learning basic, practical skills, wtf do you think i'm doing here? it sure wasn't fun exhausting myself and moving around...

The part that his index finger is touching here, the sort of cone shaped bit of plastic with slots cut into it In my experience, cables with this kind of thing attached fray far less often, and i have a few tools which are lacking these and suffering from that problem What is this device...

The problem is finally solved, thanks to Chirpychippy for helping me find a solution, i ended up having to move the hinges farther into the room!

ITs done! Amazing the door closes, everything works, you are fantastic! Thank youuuuuuuuu! I ended up moving the top hinge back 5mm, and the lower hinge back about 8mm, took a few tries to get the latter right, but now everything is fantastic and functional and the door closes cleanly!

Hi guys, thank you for the continued posts and the advice here, but just to explain the situation better: -The screws were never loose, they were secure all along -The hinge movement is caused by metal bending, not screws moving -The problem is how i've placed the hinges -The entire premise of...

OH! That does make sense, thank you so much! alright, moving the hinges back a bit is the next step i will try, this feels pretty certain to work

nope, those paint scuffs are from where i lean a 20kg olympic plate against the door to hold it in place while i was working on the frame RE: New screws: they are screwed into Wood, definitely. 100% certain. There is at least 80mm of wood between the frame and the masonry I'm sure you'll know...

About the chop in distance, I think i don't understand what you're saying. Don't get me wrong, i'm sure you know your stuff, i'm just struggling to wrap my head around exactly how the chop in distance affects the way the hinge closes. Any chance you could explain in different words, or maybe...

Based on randomly learning from a video, its sounding like the problem i have is the angle of my hinges The symptoms are exactly identical to the first case shown here: And it seems like the way to solve this is to put some shims under a part of the hinge to change its angle. specifically...

thank you for your input. But these hinges worked fine before, and to the best of my knowledge they haven't been damaged. I've just made an error somewhere. I don't see any reason to spend more money In any case, i'm learning things so it's never pointless!