Search results

Well, in that case the tester can’t see anything once the switch is off.

If you really want the light to comply with French standards you‘d most likely have to rewire it and replace all the sockets, which requires thread adaptors because NA sockets have a UNC mounting thread while European ones are M10 fine thread. As I‘ve written before, ES27 Lamps do fit ES26...

By socket switch, do you mean the switches built into the sockets or the MCBs for the socket circuits in the consumer unit?

In post #14 OP stated that the EFLI in the 2021 EICR was 0.9 Ohms. That’s within limits but feels high for a 40 A circuit in a domestic TN-C-S installation. Does the EICR mention EFLI at the consumer unit?

Surely unsatisfactory but functional bonding would be a C2 considering it would only be dangerous if two faults were to occur (bonding conductor disconnected and a fault introducing voltage to the pipework)?

Loss of PEN in three-phase distribution also means floating neutral, i.e. multiple single-phase installations are effectively connected in series between two phases, which can cause line voltage to go close to 400 V. I‘ve seen that happen in a building with a three-phase TT supply, the neutral...

A reading over 2 Ohms on a supply like yours (called TN) would point towards an iffy connection, which could be a fire risk. If there was no RCD it could also pose a risk of electric shock in case of an earth fault. And yes, the EICR should list EFLI readings for each circuit.

TN-C-S only means the PEN is earthed and at some point split into a neutral and CPC. In theory, the PEN could be earthed only once, at the transformer. The huge advantage of TN over TT is the extremely low fault impedance and the advantage of TN-C (-S) over TN-S is cost savings. Only having to...

Does each light have one cable going into that connector box like the one in your picture or do some have two? If some have two you could start disconnecting one of them to see if some lights can be turned on.

There are plenty of 230 V relays, no need for (extra) low voltage. L to key switch, from key switch to A1 terminal of the relay, neutral to A2.

Can’t you simply connect the mains feed via a key switch?

OP wrote about „a neutral that’s not in use“, I‘d read that as „a spare blue wire“. That would make three T&Es. Maybe the feed goes to the switch, one T&E with permanent live and neutral from the switch to the light and another T&E with switched live and an unused blue core from the switch to...

There’s three cables. Two lives, two neutrals, switched live and an unused blue wire. Nothing particularly puzzling. I‘d put the unused blue into the connector and the lives into the loop terminal.

You just need to find a way to crimp the fuse, it won’t like being soldered.

Looks like 110C but quite difficult to read.

Ah, sorry, my bad!

Post #5, last picture I‘m fairly sure I can see a black wire passing behind the red and going to the top terminal, which is neutral for the clock according to the diagram.

I‘m fairly certain there‘s a black neutral connected to the old thermostat.

You could also use a 45 mm back box and a blanking plate. Then it won‘t need to be maintenance-free.

If you’re going to open the ceiling get a maintenance-free junction box and get rid of all those loose connectors. Just run a short bit of T&E from the JB to the light.