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If it’s doing it straight away, could the flow isolation valve be closed?

Not a Broag Remeha expert, but looking in the mi’s, could be wrong pump wiring? @gas112 May know as these are part of the Baxi group.

Yeah,I think you might be right. There are some out there with adjustable elbow types, but can’t seem to find the bath and shower mixer together.

Apologies, I didn't read it properly. How about this?

There are some that do adjustable centers. Like this one, but that only goes to 155mm. Have a search of adjustable center shower mixer - that's how I just found that one, but I knew they existed.

As I mentioned on previous posts but I didn't make clear, they are status codes not error codes. Apologies, I meant to check the motor for pin numbers but got waylaid. Will do it now and upload - brand new one I've opened just to show you what it should look like All seems to be functioning...

No problem. I’ll have a look at a motor tomorrow and confirm how many pins there should be.

Ok, I’d go with letting him have a chance to repair it.

Best photo I can get without getting one from my van: Not sure how your engineer managed to get hot water. Either they damaged the pins or they ran the boiler in P1, which by some fluke gave hot water.

Yep, still looks ok to me. That’s just the circlip that Vaillant use, I feel it’s touching (not digging into the metal) then it’s fully home. Except you seem to be missing 2. There’s usually 4, possibly more, I only see 2. I’ve had a few where they’ve been bashed about, yours looks the same...

Not sure what you mean, but it looks ok to me. The red plug in connector looks a bit suspect though. If you unplug the part where it connects onto the motor, check the pins are all straight.

Ok, s.17 is pump overrun for the hot water circuit, S30 is no heating demand/blocked by room thermostat. If the left pipe is getting hot, and the radiators are heating up then it’s circulating into the heating circuit, as I said, could be a trapped wire not causing the motor to move over or...

Check for leaks on the radiator bleed vents, blanking plugs, valve connections and pipework where accessible. All of them ideally.

Hi, not something I’m aware of, fitted loads of these, but rarely venture into the programming side as vast majority of our customers want manual on/off.

I’m not sure, but it looks wrong imo. If the boiler is working fine, then what’s the issue?

Was the whole diverter changed? Possibly a trapped wire on the diverter harness. Press the I button when running hot water, what does it display? S.14 is running hot water. If you do it from cold, then feel the flow pipe, if this begins to heat up then it’s going down the heating circuit.

I'm not entirely sure, but think you'll need all 3 somehow in the receiver. Perhaps speak to Esi technical?

I don't think the link is required as it looks like your existing setup uses 5v, not 230/240.

So an update on this: I didn’t attend the following day due to a planning ballsup. Electrician attended today and mentioned something to do with a voltage difference (so the customer told me). Anyway, I attended late afternoon and changed the mechanical programmer for a digital type, tested to...

Not really as self employed and businesses up and down the country charge different rates. New diverter valve will be in the region of £100 - £150, motor isn't sold by Vaillant as a spare and would need to be obtained from elsewhere like eBay and is in the region of £20. Then there's labour on...