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You can’t create a dead leg in the system, which is what you’d be doing cutting off and adding a stop end. What you need to consider is getting water to all the outlets and changing the direction of flow direction. It might be feasible to change at the kitchen sink, but depends on accessibility...

I’m not sure what you’re getting at with some comments, but care to elaborate on flipping the big lever on the CU without further testing?

If you can still get access to it, maybe fit a surestop switch mechanism?

I doubt it. Although it would help, I have used a mould paint in my en-suite and the mould still returns just not as quick.

Yeah he’s excellent, understands electrics and wiring heating systems better than me as he’s more experienced. I have only really dealt with combi’s. Sorry to hear of this and sorry for your loss.

13mm might be the thinnest. Why do you want it so thin?

Yes, Siamp, Torbeck, Viva to name a few. Fluidmaster are bulkier and probably will hit the handle.

Maybe get a compact fill valve one?

Take a sample of heating water, in a suitable receptacle, eg a glass jar with lid, add some bright nails and after a few days see if they rust. Yes, if you have a feed and expansion cistern for your heating, by all means scoop water out and add inhibitor.

Could it be a poor wiring connection?

Glow worm still part of the Vaillant group so will likely fit.

So that's unfused and could be fused via another switch, or it's direct to the consumer unit, which wouldn't give the best protection. You haven't knocked a switch off anywhere have you? Seems more likely that the internal fuse has blown.

Might be best writing down what goes where, along with the photo, shouldn't be too difficult

If that's the case, either the ufh and hot water is on a 3 port valve or it's just one zone? Unless some wires go off to another motorised valve.

If you have an S plan yes. I can only see one orange wire, but no white. Do you know how many motorised valves you have?

Yes I know. The main red isolation switch in your consumer unit (fuse box as you call it) should kill all the power to your house, therefore negating the need to prove dead the circuit, as you’ve discovered there might be more than one. It could be. You could also still have a blown fuse if...

Have a look at this: https://registeredgasengineer.co.uk/technical/ventilation-requirements-for-pipework-in-ducts-or-voids/

That’s what the Cherry picker is for.

Yes it should be fed via the Randall timer. No, but you must have an incline as to whether you can work safely? The reason being is there is likely still 240Vac going to the boiler, unless you turn the big red isolation switch off, thus not needing to prove it’s dead.