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Screwfix Warwick Male Flange ¾" (88212)

From Reliance (RWC) datasheet Installation flexibility: can be installed in any orientation and is available in both hot and cold versions https://www.rwc.co.uk/rwcuk/wp-content/uploads/312-Compact-PRV-Spec-Sheet-04.pdf

The instructions say that but......

boiler has a built in bypass and should not require an external one. If internal bypass has become restricted or blocked you could either check & clean internal one or fit an external

If your flue outlet is not full of ivy, this is going to require professional attention

I am not clear, does it fire or not?

You can ask whatever question that you want. Just that the replies will be limited.

Silicone grease.

did you clean & grease the rod?

So when you pumped up EV, did you check gauge? Still on zero? Probably not so drain to zero, inflate to .8, drain to zero etc etc. Alternatively leave drain off open while you inflate EV The ev should be at .8 with the gauge at zero, then re-fill system

As Terry says, leaking ht exchanger in boiler. The leak will vary with temperature so air slightly warmer, leak slightly worse. re-connect your condense, leave heating isolated and go & run yourself a nice hot bath. Should see a bit of pressure loss then (when it has cooled).

Sounds like it is the boiler. Sometimes it will leak when hot more than when cold. You can either, top up boiler to 1.5, isolate heating circuits, run hot tap for a while to get boiler hot and see what pressure you have lost or, turn boiler off, top up to 2.5, see if water continues to dribble...

Have you perhaps closed off either the flow or return valves beneath boiler?

Choose a radiator that you can live without. Turn off both valves on the rad & drain the water out. Turn one valve back on & the air in the radiator can be your temporary EV untill engineer arrives. Sounds like your analogue gauge is blocked

If both of your showers have 2m head, the reason for the difference in performance may be that 1 has more dirt in the filters than the other. Mira miniduo operates on minimum 1m head and I have used a few on low head applications and been pleased with performance. Not too dear either.

Could be or perhaps ivy in flue or hole in aps tube.

Drawing a bit of hot water, the boiler fires. Turn off hot water ch continues to run. Problem with flue/APS, boiler turns on for ch, fan runs at 70%, not enough flow to trip APS. Draw HW, fan runs at 100%, Aps trips & boiler fires. No guarantee just the first area that I would be checking.

They don't normally operate the switch unless "thrown" open. In the manual position the switch is usually off. Of course he may have some bizarre make of valve.

I would check the microswitch on the diverter but more likely to be a air pressure switch related problem. Not really enough info to tell. Have you got ivy in your flue terminal?

Or roomstat or time clock or zone valve motor. Not sure that I understand this . You seem to be saying that CH works but everything else points to heating not working. Do I understand correctly that: HW OFF CH valve manually open Rads get hot