Search results

Could I stick plasterboard directly on to some of the exposed brick at the too right and left corner and then glue some battens at the bottom to screw in to?

I'm looking for a simple fix to this please. It's a hole left by some plumbing alterations in one of the cupboards. It's quite a tight space. I have some plasterboard and am used to using the tape and easifill to smooth things out. Struggling to see how I can get a flush finish on this. I would...

I’ve got a couple of brad nails in my skirting that bent or don’t go in fully. I’ve tried the centre punch approach but they are too fine to get anything positioned over them. It keeps slipping. I also tried pulling them out with a pair of pliers and there isn’t enough to grip on to. How do you...

Is 2 part necessary in this situation? I find it difficult to mould and flatten out. Regular wood filler is easier to work with. Something like a toupret wood filler. Let me know your thoughts please.

I used standard Dulux Matt emulsion. Presumably, I need to scrape everything off and start again, using the sealer as you have suggested? If yes, when I scrape it off, can I start again straight away or do I need to wait for surface to dry or PVA before I start?

I did cut out the loose bits of paint with a grinder as I wanted the new plasterboard sheet to be larger than the hole. How do I seal the surface? Also, could this have been caused by me painting it before the easifill was fully dry? I may have inadvertently done that.

Thanks for the responses. I’ve taken it to a car mechanic and hoping he can weld it for me.

I’ve used easifill for similar purposes in the past but it’s gone spectacularly wrong on this occasion. I was covering a gap where the old back boiler was and did the following: I then taped the joins and gave it a couple of coats of easifill to blend and smooth out. It was looking good...

I’ve now sourced a 1100mm spindle. My plan is to put it flat across the top and then draw a line to capture the angle for the bottom cut. Let me know if I’m missing anything here. Should I then use my nailer or screws at an angle?

This is a base and stand for a Xmas tree. You can see where it has broken. Any suggestions on how I can fix this please. The tree is quite heavy and hence the need for a strong join. I’ve tried superglue and it didn’t hold. Thanks in advance.

The spindle is 97cm at its highest point

Is the filler acting as glue in this situation?

UPDATE: still need to fill and sand some of the gaps but this is here I am. The wood feels solid now! Thanks for your help.

Like a Ronseal 2 part part filler? I was intending to use this on top to fill any gaps/imperfections. I thought the blob of adhesive to stick the wood piece to the existing frame will allow me to position the wood piece so that it is flush at the top.

The last door frame repair was quite different I thought, because I replaced most of the vertical section. I will post pictures of that repair in the associated post. Thanks for reminding me as I intended to post an update. This repair feels more asthetics as it just needs to take the latch...

This frame is damaged and I’ve cut a chunk of the damaged section out using my multi cutter. Can I find a decent chunk of wood (not too flimsy) and glue in using Stixall? This will allow me to put some blobs of adhesive underneath and level the wood flush at the top. I can the use two part...

I suppose, I could do a test with the current piece. I appreciate that it will be too narrow but might be worth doing, to get some experience.

Would a jigsaw be the preferred method for this cut?

At the point that it is touching the wall when in vertical position?

Do people bisect the angle for these or do a 90 degree corner and smash the wall to suit? I’ve got a few of these and wondering what approach I should take. Thanks in advance.