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Fake grass is the work of the devil

Problem is a concrete base doesn't drain. and wooden bearers stood on concrete can rot if water pools

I hope they do sign it off, but there's a bit of a storm brewing with BC as this thread suggests https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/45274-architect-won%E2%80%99t-sign-completion-notice-form/ It's the new Building Safety Act. the PD under CDM is not quite the same as PD under the BSA....

The plinth should be on clips, and the unit is probably on adjustable legs, so take out the drawers, remove plinth, remove fixings between cabinets and any upwards into the WT, wind the legs down and slide it out. Hopefully not too much adhesive has been used..... A sucker can help to remove...

Never made planters, but when I'm using concrete in fairly thin applications I have added stranded fibreglass on the recommendation of a builder. Have others any thoughts on this?

IMO you're over thinking this. Timber garden room? how much is it going to weigh. I reckon mine at 6.5 x 3.5 with a slate roof weighs somewhere in the order of about 12T. It's supported on 12 easypads rated at 2.5T which are bedded down on wacked MOT to the same clay layer, which is about 400mm...

It's not just the starting - Ethanol in E5 and E10 has a habit of degrading some materials, and the absence of it in alkylate fuels removes this problem.

For the small amount you use it's worth always using alkylate fuel in garden machinery - no need to drain - it doesn't go off https://aspenfuel.co.uk/

My setup is 3 wifi routers with 2 running in bridge mode all cabled together - just about all wifi routers can act as a bridge/switch if you turn DHCP off and give it a fixed IP, which is handy if you have some old ones knocking around. One is wifi 6 the others whatever the previous generation...

In that case it's in shear not tension and no worries - even a standard red plug not over tightened will work.

Have a look at silent gliss bendable tracks and poles. Lots of different types of brackets so could be wall mounted L brackets behind the pole. Expensive but very good quality. Measure at least 5 times for custom tracks before placing your order - don't get it wrong...

It's all rotten, and I suspect the ends of the slate battens might be similar. Not only that, but the "blockiness" of the rot suggest dry rot rather than wet rot. Either way, it's all got to come off and something new put in place. It really needs scaffolding, stripping and sorting with new...

Go to your local kitchen supplier and get a length, or even B&Q https://www.diy.com/departments/tydeman-matt-pebble-straight-cornice-l-2400mm-h-74mm/5063022533357_BQ.prd

I've never been a fan of any "plug" type fitting for plasterboard. When I've had to fix to PB as there's a void I can't avoid, then I tend to use toggle fixings https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-spring-toggles-5mm-x-50mm-20-pack/4257x Floating shelves however are a very tricky proposition...

No, it'll just be a 20cm bigger void behind the backpanel of the unit, or you could get some non-standard carcasses made up with extra depth

No that won't happen, but you'll struggle to get any EPC with a single skin wall, and any changes then invoke BC if you want to try and get a better EPC.

It's becoming a renter so not so easy to avoid doing it by the book.....

You really, really don't need a nail gun for the jobs you are planning. Use screws and an impact driver and/or nails and a hammer.

looks like a money pit and world of pain to me.

£1K cheaper - ouch.