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Was planning on lift into place with a beam lifter and dry packing above, so that would mean 4 each side? I don't even know if that would fit in a 2.1m span. It certainly would give no room to work. Yes the max span is 900mm / 3ft but the max weight is only 340kg to would only go near that span...

I am trying to figure out the number of Acrow props / Strongboy heads needed to support the floors / walls while I install an RSJ, but the numbers aren't making much sense. Plan is to prop / scaffold board under the floor joists to take most of the load off the wall, and use strongboys to take...

SE has revised the foundation requirement thankfully so crisis averted

Could the suggested foundation size be due to the reduced size of the walls it is bearing onto? The factored load of 76.8kN distributed over the 2.6m span of existing wall comes out to 29.54kN/m With the 2.6m span of wall removed, that only leaves 1.1m (total wall width = 3.7m) which is...

178x102x19 The unfactored load is 54.3kN, factored is 76.8kN

I've had an SE come up with specs for a RSJ to support a 2.6m span of a load bearing, internal wall (see floorplan below) Within their specifications they 'assume' a 600mm wide / 800mm deep concrete trench foundation, and suggest underpinning if this is not the case. Given the house is from...

If you remove any rubbish, rubble, glass etc from the soil and rotavate it I wouldn't bother with topsoil. Just choose a grass variety suitable for your soil type. Would also say seed though, cheaper and gives a better result. Only takes a month to come through.

Yeah I didn't notice the dodgy trimmer until I posted the photo - not my work!

Like I said don't want to load onto the ceiling joists

Hi all, I'm planning out how to board a small section of my loft above the hallway / landing - pic below - and wanted some other opinions. The area is 1600 x 3700, the ceiling joists are 75x50, at approx. 400 centres, and the purlin is 175x65. Main problem I've got is there's a large purlin...

38mm is quite thick for a board, what kind of furniture are you making? You will struggle to find planed boards of that kind of width and thickness. PSE stands for Planed Square Edge, it's the squarest timber you'll find on the shelf but its always a lottery. A hand planer would be a good idea.

I've picked up a new door casing set but noticed that the rebates in the head aren't flush - they protrude by 2mm and this leaves me with an equivalent gap at the top of the legs. Is there a purpose behind this or is it a defect?

Hope the BI agrees, cheers Yeah half the houses on the street have the same layout but most were done before the 90s and I know a lot has changed with the regs since

I have a typical terraced house with a brick wall separating the living room & dining room Plan for this year was to knock that through using an RSJ to support the load and brick up the doorway between the hallway / living room. I was thinking this would be straightforward as far as building...

The corners just look funny because it's a patchy mist coat, there's no condensation Annoying that of all the hours of YT videos I've watched I've never heard of mesh being used until now

Yep, no hollow sounding on any of those cracked walls

1930s terrace, all walls in bedroom had gloss paint in good condition Covered with blue grit and skimmed with multifinish Did this in my spare time so took a few months to get around all the walls Now getting hairline cracks showing up after I've mist coated and want to know if I've done...

Why bother? Looks in fine condition. Well not now you've gone smacking holes in it maybe..

OK to be painted over? Everything I've read says it leads to flaky paint, or is that if it's too neat?

Got a few walls in one room where I've added some sockets and also damaged the plaster behind the skirting board, hence need to re-skim Rather than do the whole wall (very difficult to do in time as a novice) I've opted to strip the paint off (needed doing anyway), skim up about 1/4 from the...