Search results

A quick google suggests 16A standalone RCDs (not RCBOs) in din-rail format do exist.

There are at least two things to think about here. Firstly, what exactly do you mean by "RCB"? that's not a commonly used acronym! To comply with current standards, your socket circuit needs both overcurrent protection and RCD protection. * A "MCB" provides overcurrent protection. * A "RCD" or...

I can think of a few potential reasons for that. Firstly if a cable is highly loaded then Firstly, if a cable is consistently highly loaded for many years energy losses can significantly outweigh the cost of the cable. Lets say a cable carries 50A continuously for 50 years. Over it's lifetime...

ROFLMAO

Only the supplier can say for sure, but I don't see anything obviously wrong with them. The thinkness of the plastic and the set-back of the metal parts from the front face both look quite reasonable to me.

Another possible option, which does come with some risk but may be worth considering is to use the existing cable as a pull line to pull through a new longer cable.

Their website claims you need to own a heat pump or electric boiler to be eligable panel heaters don't seem to count :( Edit I was wrpmg, the main page only mentions electric boilers or heat pumps, but the faq says "If you have a heat pump (air or ground source), an electric boiler or electric...

Annoyingly toolstation seem to have decided to no-longer carry the minigrid fuse modules. They are listed as "clearance" and "out of stock for delivery", when I look at collection it only shows me one branch in my area with stock. The click4electrics site seems down right now, but my last order...

Click minigrid is great for this kind of thing, less fussy-looking than most other modular ranges, available with both round and square edges and very affordable. Once you account for the saved backbox, I doubt the cost of doing it with minigrid would be much different from doing it with a...

Personally I'd probablly either use an unswitched FCU, or use a modular fuse on the same plate as the first switch.

I don't know what americans would call what we call a "boiler". But afaict "wet" central heating systems like we use in the UK are unusual in the USA. Americans tend towards "central air" systems, where heated or cooled air is pumped around the house. The "furnace" is the component of the...

That's only true if the power factor is 1, which it pretty much is for incandescents but may not be true for other types of lighting. For LEDs I would assume a power factor of 0.5. Still it would take a *lot* of domestic-sized LED lights to reach 5A.

Something to think about when doing this is how easy/difficult it will be for the next guy to find the fuse. IMO to minimise confusion the fuse should be close to (or better-yet part of) the light switch. I wouldn't want to use a FCU in one room to supply lights in another.

running the numbers. A Europlug has pins of 4mm diameter, spaced 18.6mm between centers at the base and 17.5mm between centers at the tips. That gives, at the tip an outer width of 21.5mm and an inner width of 13.5mm. A UK shaver plug/BS372 2 pin 5A plug has 16.7mm between centers, and a pin...

Perhaps more importantly, working in radians makes calculus much easier, because it avoids annoying constants in the integration and differentiation formula.

My parents have (or had, I don't know if they still have it) an old adapter with 13A plug pins, a 5A 3 pin socket and two 2-pin sockets, presumablly to BS372. We found Europlugs did not work reliably in said adapter, they would work at first, but over time had a tendancy to either fall out, or...

Do you have a make/model for the socket?

Thats pretty much what they do in hot countries (except they seem to rely on daredevil climbers rather than cherry pickers in many of them).

The closest I'm aware of is https://cpc.farnell.com/tiger-power-supplies/eu-rw-2p/2-pin-euro-rewireable-plug-2-5a/dp/PL16717?st=europlug It's a Europlug not a UK shaver plug, but most UK shaver sockets will also accept Europlugs. Also they don't seem massively clear on exactly what tool should...

Loop at switch takes more effort and materials, but is IMO the better solution in a new construction or major renovation scenario for two reasons. 1. You automatically get a neutral at the switch position*, this is useful if you want to install smart switches. 2. It works better with "fancy"...