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I recently knocked down a wall 8.5m long, couple of small piers, wall around 900mm tall, single brick, footing was 150mm thick one end and a stingy 30mm :oops: thick at the other end, wall had stood for years until it was replaced, on sandy soil. Think you'll be good.

If it was me, I would pack out the gaps with slivers, cut down the length of your 3x2. Easy to cut down, say a few mm thick, with a circular saw. You can cut longer tapered pieces too. I wouldn't use end grain, it falls apart, when tapping in. I'd then use PU glue (slightly expanding, like...

Just need some advice regarding best way to claim for van expenses being self employed? I was reading up on capital allowance and flat rate per mile. I thought I would be able to pay for all expenses via business account and this would be knocked off any tax liability at year end. It seems...

If you need to introduce a slope, what about cutting some firring strips (long cheese wedge shape), and attaching along your rafters? as they do for flat roofing. If you have a circular/table saw, you can get two strips from a length of wood.

With regards to birdsmouth cuts, yes, usually one third of material can be removed. On the roofs I've see with 45x95 timbers, they are plumb cuts, never seen a birds mouth on that size. Wasn't aware of the 30° limit on the hangers. These are meant to be good for up to 45° LSSR or these LRUZ...

Presume you've seen these? Would this be of any use? Just looked at the tech specs, think they will be to tall for your wood section. Slope hangers Maybe this?? Ridge hanger

Morning. Sounds interesting. What's the span you are dealing with? As for hardware have you had a look through the Simpson website?

Could you staple/glue wide sheets of DPC on the back of the sleepers?

You might not need to mortar between the slate you are inserting, slide a thin bit in, then slide another piece on top (or underneath) first piece and if it's tight, hammer it in, keep hammering in bits of slate until its tight. Alternatively, you could use mortar to pack out the void. 3 parts...

Think there is P+ spec, two radiators panels but with only 1 set of fins... might help?

Was like that in my old house. Easily a DIY job. (y) If your tiles are actual slate, then yes you can use it. Roofing slate is good, as you can have long thin sections and keep forcing it in, knock with hammer and snap off excess. Ideally wood needs a layer of DPC (damp proof course, £10...

A family member is thinking of having wet UFH installed for a new extension they are having being built, they would like wet UFH with a laminate/LVT/Karndean type floor. I've only got experience of ceramic tiles on top of UFH, so can't offer them any advice. Would LVT flooring (presume glued...

I've got the Makita, it's a beast, it's lovely to use, soft start, very smooth... and I like the depth gauge, with quick override. I haven't yet, but will install in lifter when I get around to it, a nicer router than my old Bosch blue.

Have you got a pressure gauge on the manifold? if so the pressure will be less if it was leaking from the pipe loops. Hope it's not a pipe leak. Presuming it was pressure tested before screeding?

Some thin PVCU trim (pencil round architrave, possibly), glued onto brick and overlapping the white frame. Puraflex adhesive will stick it to brick/plastic. Good luck

The garden won't affect the houses foundations, so please try to stop worrying about it. Might be an idea to build something to retain the soil hardcore under the path (a small wall or sleepers etc). Do these pipes go anywhere? soakaway/drain? If the pipe in your pictures are perforated, they...

If looking at the first image (and I've got the correct orientation) there appears to be a black pipe/conduit running through the floor... looks large-ish diameter... do you know what it's for? water or electric?

I've been using Timabuild resin system for repairing windows. Also mentioned on this forum is Oxera resin (similar to timbabuild, but cheaper) both do a good job of repairing rotten windows, there is hardener to start with first, then you can splice wood or just fill, depending on how bad the...

You don't have to screed on top, but it is normal practice to do so. Rarely are concrete slabs flat enough to take your floor covering. I have option 2, the UFH pipes are in the screed, probably no use to you. You could do option 1, and then either thinner screed or self levelling compound...

Are you having UFH? If not you could put the insulation under the concrete. You won't be able to lap DPM into a bitumen DPC. Just re-read, is there a slab down already, or have you removed and just have earth?