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What about secondary glazing for this window instead?

Does the water have a greenish tinge? I was recommended to use X700 biocide (Sentinel products). I added this through the magnaclean filter, a simple process, scoop out the water with a small glass... and then bleed the air out.

I filled the gaps with expanding foam, then aluminium duct taped all the joints. This passed the inspection.

This might be what you need. Flue guard

I did a spade deep and wide as a footing for my sleeper walls. All has been good. Just make sure you put some DPC on top to the wall before resting your joists on there. Wherever wood is in contact with the brickwork, slide some DPC inbetween. I went around the hearth with a a trimmer (90º to...

If you are replacing it early 2024, then why not just lash-up some cavity batts/rockwool for the the time being (for the animals) Then, when time to replace, build a proper warm roof.

Sorry, thought it was a crab claw. :LOL: Will stay tuned for the next one.(y)

When you say water, presume you are talking about condensation. Lots of flat roofs are now warm roofs insulation on outside, which will help stop condensation. Insulation on inside can promote it, hence the need for ventilation. Can you add any ventilation? If not, I've seen it mentioned on...

I not sure what c, d, a or b is, but if you are saying the blockwork is 3cm proud of the wall, then there's no easy way of remedying. You can't grind off 3cm. Either you want the blockwork re-doing and setting back or bring the surrounding area (presumably white wall c, d?) out by 3cm to match...

Build quality of Sage is better IMO, and I've had both machines. I don't think the Breville version of the Sage Barista will be as good with a good few years of use on it. The grinder mechanism is similar but not as good, plastic is cheaper and marks more easily... it feels flaky... but yes...

The ridge does look a bit bumpy... have you been into the loft to see what the state of the roof is? Can you take a photo of the gable end, or is this not possible?

Would be cheaper to remove the grille and measure the wall thickness to see if it's cavity or not... also IF it's been filled you should be able to see the filling. Solid brick is usually 9" wide. I suspect it's a solid brick wall, with no cavity, especially being from 1898. I'm in a 1900's and...

Run the grinder up it and repoint if worried. Clear sealant if you want a bodge. Personally I'd leave it alone. Last extension I looked at, had foam strip insert instead of any mortar... they just left it, but think the proper way is a polysulphide joint sealant, after the foam strips.

I looks like a large stack to service just 1 chimney pot. Yes, your illustration is what I'm talking about. My money is on the fact that the other flues have been capped off and not properly ventilated. Also I wonder if there is water collecting, above the brick corbeling on the gable end...

That stack looks like there could be multiple chimney's. Possibly 4. You appear to only have 1 vented cowl. If the others are just capped off, this could be a contributor to the damp patches. To be ventilated it needs a vent in the room(s) and at the chimney pot.

It's a bit difficult to see what's what as your photos are cropped in, might help if you could take a photo or two showing a bit more of the surrounding area. Is there is any DPC in the solid wall to the right of the stone cill? Is the concrete floor newish or been down a while? Do you have...

Morning I'd get clean-up the surfaces to be joined with methylated spirits (if needed) then use a Hybrid Polymer type sealant adhesive. Something like this (or whatever you can find local to you). Fix all Add a generous amount to sink/gap and when you tighten your brackets up, the excess...

8/10 ;) (y)

o_O As Duncan Bannatyne would say... 'I'm out' too confusing for me.:LOL:

Hahaha, thanks, on your next expresso Mottie, take a pic, we'll compare it to the box.(y)