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Don't forget you need a single means of isolation for the whole installation.

Don't bother with GU10 CFLs. Don't bother with cheap GU10 LEDs. Look for LEDs that specify their lumen output. Unfortunately you won't get anything good for under £20 each, so saving money won't happen immediately. If a certain forum member was here he'd tell you that you should replace...

Can't say I do know of one. An advantage of fitting two boards is you can go for single RCD ones, which you should be able to get cheap.

It's origins are split between a British organisation (The IEE) and an international standard. The 17th Edition is a British Standard. Britain is part of Europe, so yes. If you're going to ignore the requirement to notify to building control then be aware, it might cause problems when...

True

No - Part P applies only to "the design and installation of electrical installations". The Electricity at Work Regulations 1989 apply however and even without them, all work should be done safely.

Are you sure? It's very unusual to find cables buried more than 50mm deep in a wall. You're not allowed to chase walls to more than one third of the depth of the wall (only counting a single leaf of a cavity wall). It only a sixth for horizontal chases.

I'd be happier if you isolated the cable outside the bathroom. If you install a new junction box in the wall it could be argued it comes under part p. Will it be immediately obvious that there is a junction box behind the mirror? Also lights may need a transformer to feed them and this...

If it was a bathroom, and will be a bathroom, then I'd still class it as a bathroom in the intervening period. However Part P only covers design and installation, not removal. Just do a proper job - i.e. don't leave a live cable in the wall with nothing to show where it is. If you...

Please don't take any of my comments as a personal attack. I'm not saying you're stupid. I'm saying I don't think you have the necessary knowledge. For example PSCC has nothing to do with selecting a B, C or D type MCBs (Although they are related to inductive loads). You have some...

Gas safety certs are a legal requirement. Electrical aren't as far as I know. Landlords do have a general duty to make sure that the electrics are safe however.

What diameter did you measure the conductor to be?

I know what you where considering doing to a type tested consumer unit. A fair point. If I tell you that it stands for "Prospective Short Circuit Current" would that help? To name 3: Cable routes. Erection methods to minimise the spread of fire. Accessibility of joints.

The electrician has to sign to say three aspects of the install have been done correctly: (1) Design (2) Installation (3) Inspection and Testing He might get a labourer to help with (2), but will be checking numerous things as the work progresses. This forms part of the inspection...

Then anyone competent will not be willing to sign to say it meets regulations and is safe. I'm pretty sure you don't! There are two ways to comply with Part P, and this isn't one of them. You should either: Have all the work done by someone who can self-certify the work or: Go...

What sort of certificate did he give you?

How did you get the utility room circuit "certified"? Did you pay for the LABC to test and inspect?

You could get say 8 X 6W LEDs. The good ones don't come cheap though. And no - A new electrician can't sign off the first guys work.

Really, the solution is to move the transformer to be right next to one end of the 2-wire system. I know it's not what was specified, but it's how it's got to be done.