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I said "something like this",meaning some sort of suitable ready mixed filler. Should have been clearer. White can't look any worse that it does now as has been already said, it's a mess anyway.

I don't think it is just the rating of the iron but also the size of the tip and the thing that you are trying to solder. If it applies the heat too locally (ie it's small ) and it quickly dissipates you will never get a good join that will stand the heat and vibration that an alternator might...

Something like this should make it easier for you...

To me it looks like you need to remove the grid and clean out the gully, fit a 135degree bend to the kitchen waste and take it below the level of the grid which you will need to cut to suit.

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/cooker-extractor-fan.575142/ The link no longer works for me, so you will probably have to contact Elica and ask for the same info that was on that page.

We had one in our imprinted concrete and tried everything, apart from one of those lift dollies (that I have never seen before). I ended up cutting it out with an angle grinder and replacing it with a similarly cloured/patterned flagstone and a rubber seal, over the top of the inspection hatch.

Looks like it's possibly some sort of test point, but in my opinion you need get your supplier to check if it is live or dead and cap it off to prevent future confusion.

Look at the pic's here and lay your bits on the floor. out as best suits your set up...

I was taught to hit the point of the nail to blunt it, with the head resting on somehiong hard,before hammering into thin wood to help stop splitting. Never questioned, just always done it that way

Is it on your propery or does your front door open on to a public pavement

Most people would want a mirror over the washbasin which rules out under the window. You will need to give available dimensions to get meaningful advice

Get some rising butt hinges

Stick some of this across the top to the soffit and down the sides of the pelmet to the frame...

Does it flex when you stand on it. If not it should be ok. Epecially once the tray is installed.

When you dug out your trench was there any sign of a DPC ? Have you got cavity or solid walls ?

Please supply a pic of what you currently have showing the isolator and the cable sticking out of the wall. As blup says you need a cooker oulet plate near the bottom of the wall where the cooker is installed.

Try a google search for your model it, might give more info., but I would not expect the flow rate on boiling water to be as good as the other settings due to the extra time taken to raise the temp. so much

As you have an opening window you could just disconect the fan. Yes at the consumer unit

Have you tried a reset https://www.rangemaster.co.uk/sites/default/files/user_guides_uploaded/U110651-01%20[GB].pdf or looked at the settings

Still covered by warranty call the supplier out.