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Do you mean drain the cold water in the house via the heating pipework by way of the filling loop? In a word, NO. You can drain most of the water from the mains pipework by shutting off the stopcock and then opening the lowest outlet, followed by opening the highest outlet. The lowest outlet is...

Yes it should really be there. To be honest, though, after a few years, drain offs are so unreliable that I would be looking for any other way possible to drain pipework rather than use a drain off that will either not work at all or will leak after its been used. However, if its on their quote...

I've never seen one like that. May be worth sending these guys your photos to see if they have any ideas. https://toiletseatstore.co.uk/

Boiler manufacturers usually specify a minimum distance of copper pipe attached to the boiler but beyond that point barrier pipe and plastic fittings are ok.

With an external soil stack and sink waste going out through the wall into a gulley, I'd be very surprised if there was an issue under the kitchen floor.

Temporary repair to the soil stack with duct tape until it can be repaired or replaced should rule it in or out as the problem. My money would be on the trap being pulled though. Reducing from 40mm to 32mm is very likely to cause suction on the water in the trap. You could try an anti vac trap...

It may be the angle and perspective but the waste pipe looks narrow. It should be 40mm but if its 32mm and there was only a shallow trap its possible that the trap was being pulled by self siphonage when the sink empties.

Ah, I assumed it was an upstairs flat. The vent pipe needs to be higher but it wouldn't cause a smell downstairs.

The soil/vent pipe termination is too close to the windows. I can't see whether the vent pipe is open or has a durgo on the top. I suspect that smell is coming in the window. Other possibilities are that the sink overflow is sludged up and smelly or that the trap is getting pulled when the sink...

The PRD is on the back of the outlet. Remove the two screws on the left hand side of the white outlet pipe. This should allow you to remove or at least rotate the outlet to get to the PRD. I assume you've got the power off by this stage.

The Siamp fill valve probably needs a new washer. https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-hayes-siamp-diaphragm-washer-29mm/5006j You will need to turn the water off to do this. The washer is located under the knurled ring at the front of the valve. Pay special attention to the position of the short...

On closer inspection of your 1st photo, there appears to be a significant crack in the cistern running down from the back left hand corner. I would check this out and watch out for it leaking. It may be though that due to the back to wall design, you may not notice a leak.

Its a Siamp Optima 49 flush valve. It's a twist and lift out replacement. TBH, I wouldn't bother turning the water off to do the job as it will just run away into the pan while the valve is out. Those back to wall pans are a pet hate of mine. There is no way to monitor condition of connectors or...

The fitting manufacturers will have data sheets which will give the required distances.

Don't think I've ever changed the washer on a fluidmaster fill valve. Not worth the faff as the replacement valves are cheap. For future reference and hopefully won't be too frustrating given what you've been through, but these fill valves can be changed without draining the cistern. Turn water...

To stop people dying from cholera or a host of other water borne diseases.

The PRD is on the outlet. When you reduce the flow rate before the PRD as you do when turning down the flow control, there will be little or no change to the pressure acting on the PRD. A blocked or restrictive shower head is slowing the flow after all the internal components including the PRD...

Its just the disc seal that needs replacing. Can't imagine there is much of a demand for second hand shower heads however great the reviews are but go for it. Triton showers are ok but they are the cheaper end of the market and you get what you pay for. I fit lots in rented properties and really...

https://www.showerdoc.com/mira-gem-88-exposed-shower-spares Hopefully that's the correct model. If not, exploded diagrams should be on the showerdoc.com spares pages.

No need for washers. Use enough PTFE tape on the thread so that it is tight as it screws in. Stop when the tap is vertical just before it runs out of thread. If it screws in too easily, remove and add a few more turns of tape.