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Changed my car insurance and noticed in the conditions that they don't pay if the driver is over the limit for alcohol or drugs. Can they do that, legally? If their driver is at fault in an accident, due care etc, that's just when they do pay out. Is drink/drugs different?

Boiler manuals usually have diagrams showing open vented and sealed systems, as #3 above. No problem. I'm surprised the primary can't stand higher pressure than 3.5 bar, it's only a pipe. I assume 1.45" means tested to 1.45 x design pressure.

No, I'm a DIYer. Heating is too important to be left to the professionals :giggle: I don't quite get that. Pls explain. From an earlier thread (You) Ideally, but rarely done. Maybe that explains some of the disaster areas you've seen! The recommendations in boiler manuals show up and under...

Each to his own! My header tank is quite clean

The instructions should give max working pressure, typically 3 bar, so it shouldn't be hard to do that if pressurised. Need a PRV though. The boiler doesn't know whether the pressure is static from a F/E tank, or an expansion vessel. Not that I'm in favour of pressurised.

Reminds me of a Smith and Jones exchange about John McVicar Smith - Look at that John McVicar, nasty, violent, hardened armed criminal, no use to anybody. But when he was in prison he studied, he worked hard, and now he's got a sociology degree. Jones - so he's still no use to anybody then.

Not only that, but the energy used by electronic devices is likely to be a small fraction of the total.

You made these points earlier in this thread, and it was discussed then.

Cold feed on the boiler return is the old way, up till about 1970. Trouble with it is it causes seewsawing between the fill and vent on pump start/stop, drawing water with dissolved air into the system, and corrosion risk. Edit - and if you're re-routing pipework, don't forget the rads returns...

Yes if you've got the kit - blowtorch and maybe pipe bender. Might need to buy fittings, elbows etc

I know it's not an issue with what you're doing, but I thought it wasn't recommended to cover electrical wires with insulation, due to heat build-up.

My thought too. And making a thing of it being "a generous 1000mm x 500mm..." when that's a standard size. Sounds very Chinese to me, though that's not to say it couldn't be an OK sink.

Are the taps nice and rigid? Mine's also a Blanco, couple of pics attached (don't know why they've turned 90°). Were they rigid? What was the sink thickness?

Mine's a monobloc tap, can't remember whether it came with flexis, I fitted it over 20 years back, but I plumbed it in solid copper anyway.

By system pressure I assume we mean pressure at the boiler. That's where the pressure switch is. If the fill point is at a different level, that needs to be taken into account. It would be sensible to locate the pressure indicator local to the fill point. I suppose it's possible the fill point...

Taps rocking back and forth is the main problem with a flimsy sink. If you plumb in solid copper rather than flexis it gives a big improvement. More trouble, but unlike flexis lasts indefinitely as well.

It could be 0.3 or 0.5 bar if the if the highest point of the system is less than 3m (or 5m) above the boiler, and the boiler cutout pressure switch is set low enough. 1 bar is a convenient covering figure, which is OK for most installations.

Also because the boiler is usually on the ground floor, and need to ensure the highest rads are under positive pressure.

Yes, good point

Most likely you have Y-plan, possibly W-plan as it's all fairly old. I meant gravity through the cylinder coil, olde-worlde system, which you haven't got. That's why I said primary. With your non-pressurised HW cylinder the flow to the taps (secondary side) must be by gravity. If you change...