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Trusty and Ferroli in the same sentence?

Is it possible that the condensate pipe (which may be teed into a drain) is allowing odours into the room, which may smell like gas? Eg, there may be an air gap installed on the condi pipework.

I just had a quick look thrtough the book online and couldn't see a pressure sensor. I would have thought there is one, something is telling the PCB there's not enough pressure? They are usually easy to spot, and easy to bridge out just for test purposes.

I rareley come across these boilers, but logic would dictate that the boiler thinks it has no pressure, so I would be looking at the pressure sensor.

As I suggested some time ago;)

Knackered tap, crappy modern ceramic valve, see loads of them. If you can accurately ID the tap, just get a repalcement cartridge, if not, you'll have to change the tap.

If you've drained the system, you'll need the air from the heat exchanger.

Are you sure the immersion hasn't been left on? Does the boiler and pump switch off if you turn the cyl stat down with the boiler running?

Looks ok to me, but choose one rad to act as a bypass by fitting lockshield valves to both ends, and leave them open, this is usually the rasd nearest room stat.

The blue light tells you that you have power to the boiler, unless it is flashing, which indicates a fault. My first port of call would be to see if the boiler actally has a demand for heat from the stat. If HW is working, then that's quite likely the problem

It would be far easier just to change the pan.

Could be a number of things, but I would need to be in front of the boiler to see what is happening. My bet is flame sensor, but you'll need a GS bod to install it.

I close the flow/return valves on the boiler which preserves the pressurised water in the exp vessel, and prevents air being drawn into the auto air vent. You just need to depressurise the system via a drain and crack on. If you have a enough play in the pipes, it's easiest to undo one side and...

Hideous boiler, skip it.

Had to do that a number of times where the p/board is thin stuff, or the boiler bracket needs to go where an old balanced flue hole was, and I couldn't core drill the new brick/block.

I've just had to order one of those, 5 day wait.

Sounds like you have a sticking end switch in one of your zone valves

The black lever next to the pressure gauge will be the flow isolating valve, it should point vertically, not horizontally.

Do either of you use a Nebuliser? They will cause odd coloured flames.

If the boiler is firing, where is the heat going? Or is the boiler firing for a very short time? Maybe have a look at the pump, or check for a blockage in the pipework near the pump, where the cold feed from header tank enters the system.