Search results

That looks like Hep pipe 15mm. you can use either make of elbow to repair it.

If you're going to take the cylinder out, I'd reposition the pump at the same time for future ease of access.

Neat wiring(y)

Change tap, get rid of pop up plug/waste assembly/ fit new waste.

I agree, then it will last another 30yrs. those things are bombproof.

You need a permanent live & neutral into the Hive which you can take from the boiler, then connect Ls to T1 & Lr to T3. I use 4 core cable

The mains water pressure has nothing to do with the system pressure displayed on the gauge, they are connected by a filling loop which sounds as though it may be passing, ie, allowing mains water into the heating circuit.

The zone valves will have a orange and grey wire, you need to figure out how to use those as your volt free contacts to your combi in order to make it fire. Scribble it down on a scrap of paper, to simplify, 240v to brown wire to switch zv on, then orange and grey to make combi switch on.'...

Those black plastic levers often spin on the shaft rather than actually turn it, try removing the lever and use a spanner on the shaft,

Oh Lordy

I have an intense dislike of plastic tails on fill valves, hence I don't install them, only brass tails, in your situation I would use a flexi ntap connector, they're very gentle on crappy plastic threads.

Possibly, the gas valve could be passing, needs checking sooner rather than later.

Just needs tightening

DHW preheat switched on, as said above.

Bin it, the software in those things is hideous when it hits self destruct mode.

Black valves should be in the vertical position

Try opening the non TRV valve fully open and see what happens

Yes

We use brick acid, easilly available & does the job. It's normally the primary side of the plate that blocks from the muck in the system.

Easiest way would be to buy a flexi tap connector hose with integral iso valve and attach it onto the copper below the speedfit connector, discard everything else there.