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Is that basin on a pedestal ? If it is ,the pedestal will very often need to be moved to gain access to the waste and trap.

Reduce the angle of the horizontal section coming from the basin by lowering it.

That's what you need.

Re check the connections,the 2 blue neutrals in the connector block don't look too good.

If you want to drive for an hour to get them go for it. I wouldn't bother.

The conductors from the light fitting don't need to all go into one side of a terminal block with the supply into the other end. You could put 3 into one end and 4 in the other ,for instance. With a wago you must put only one wire into each port. So the earth conductors twisted together ,for...

Ok ,so the base plate is earthed via the ceiling bracket ? You could connect up using wago's as you suggest ,or insulated terminal blocks if space is an issue.

Is the base of that fitting metal or plastic ?

A picture of your new light fitting would be useful. There are 3 earth conductors in your pic ,as well as one blue with brown tape ( the switched live),2 blue neutrals ,and 3 brown line.

I wouldn't expect to see very much ( if any) of the isolators thread,when the hose is connected up.

Is it possible that, when you tighten up the blue plastic nut, it is externally coming up against something that prevents it from fully tightening ? I can't see any reason for the seal not making a watertight connection.

Can you show us a pic of the hose end ,with no washer in place ? And another with the black washer in place please ?

May just be the picture is out of focus ,but the face of that isolation valve doesn't look smooth and flat . You can't really overtighten it by hand

Can't tell much from your pics . Are the mating surfaces of the isolation valve and the hose clean and flat ? If so ,are you tightening up sufficiently when fitting the hose onto the valve ?

Kitchen tap would be fed with mains pressure cold water,not from a header tank.

Waste pipe doesn't enter the waste fitting. The waste fitting connects to the trap. So I don't know what you are actually asking ?

The whole thing looks in poor condition ,and at some point will need replacing. Not sure that anything can be done to keep it working, difficult to work out what is binding.

The key should be pushed fully upwards and turned until it locks into position. Then you turn the small white ,square, clockwise a full turn. Is this what you did ? May take more than 10 seconds.

The question now is ,what caused the fuse to blow ? Is the DW fully working now ?

Are you sure about that ,it would be highly unlikely ? Can't make out how the pump is connected from your pics. What temperature is the heating set to on the boiler?