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Reduce the file size maybe ?

Posting pictures directly onto this site would be preferable. Not everyone will click onto a link to who knows what.

No pictures to view ??

There is a rubber seal missing from that compression fitting. Is it inside the elbow ?

Is your mains cold water stopcock fully open ? What is the flow rate from your kitchens cold tap ( how many litres of cold water do you get from it if you time it running fully for 1 minute)?

If you remove the stat ,and connect the incoming live directly to the element ,does the RCD still trip instantly ?

What trips , RCD ,MCB, RCBO ? Does the trip happen immediately the element is turned on ,or sometime afterwards?

Did they ever heat fully ?

If a radiator isn't heating up there is no flow through it ,so the x400 will do nowt as far as that radiator goes.

Call out an engineer. If you want to save water,close your mains cold water stopcock. Put it on ,as and when you need water.

How many rads don't heat up currently ? Close the TRV ( or wheel head if no TRV) on all rads that currently heat up. See if any cold rads now heat up. Report back.

It looks like the staining on the wall has been there for some time, and from the original leak. If you were expecting the staining to just disappear once the leak was stopped ,that's unlikely to happen. With regard to the 14 year old boiler ,I personally wouldn't keep spending money on it now...

Take the bleed valve out ,if there is a plumbers merchant open near to you take it there to get a new O ring. If not ,wrap PTFE tape around it's thread and re fit it . Get a new O ring when possible . It looks like the leak may not be from the bleed valve though .

Yes ,that standpipe/ trap from Screwfix is what you need . You would use a short length of 40mm waste pipe horizontally from the trap to an elbow ,and from the elbow another piece of pipe , vertically down into the boss.

Fit a standpipe and trap,and from that pipework into the black boss ( reducer) in the floor.

It's fine ,don't overtighten it. The slip ring on other fittings is essentially to prevent the rubber seal from twisting / misforming, providing even pressure onto it.

Indeed , unfortunately there is a limit to what can be diagnosed remotely. You asked for " parameters",and if things could be "narrowed down" to lessen the chance of being " burnt". The information given by all the contributers has hopefully given you some clarity in that regard, and I sincerely...

I suggest you call in a heating engineer.

Did the system heat all radiators previously,and at some point the downstairs rads stopped heating up ?

With the valve " energised" as per your instruction ,the orange wire could well carry 230/240 volts irrespective if it is in a terminal block. John ,your instructions are not very clear and could possibly lead someone to try to measure resistance on conductors carrying mains voltage ,might be...