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Does the utility room stay a little bit above freezing? Insulation slows down heat loss but it might be a case of making sure the room itself doesn't drop too low with some tubular heaters or the like as well.

Tacwise do staples in stainless but even the normal ones are galvanized

Other than not feeling like you're walking on a slab of ice in some properties?

If you have a battery system that's lasting you through to the early hours you may find it better to go with a smart tariff designed around this sort of setup, they have a cheap overnight rate for battery top-up and pay you extra for export during peak hours if the batteries can spare it.

No boxing in of pipework between floors?

Trap and bait, for our recent loft inhabitants the bait was needed to finish them off. Rats can be so suspicious that they might not touch any bait for ages then they'll just start gorge feeding so it sometimes needs a bit of patience.

Looking at your other screenshots it looks like you have the same vendor for the inverter (Lux?) so you wouldn't expect incompatibility unless it's down to mismatched firmware/software. Given the software bells and whistles is there definitely not a logging/status output in an advanced part of...

There are 12v low voltage plinth heaters, not a biggy https://thermix.co.uk/plinth-heaters/kph1400lv/ The installation manual doesn't explicitly rule out installing them the wrong way round but I'm not sure how well it would work.

If it is one of those it does sound like those devices also have their own separate monitoring that can connect to WiFi too though, the bumph on the website isn't incredibly detailed about how you set it up but any information would be from the horse's mouth rather than the inverters...

One of these? https://www.luxpower.co.uk/greenlinx CANbus to the inverter then RS485 linking the batteries, the batteries should be doing the monitoring but perhaps the inverter isn't quite "talking the talk" with them.

And you might also have to bridge the gap with bodge wires as well as those are possibly the only connection, might have to give it a prod with multimeter

Fiddly but probably yes, you'd have to have a trailing replacement connector or battery leads bodged directly onto the board, it's also possible you've damaged one of the vias. You'd have to very carefully clean and then epoxy down the bits of copper trace that have lifted, remove some of the...

I had a cheaper and nastier version of the above years ago which didn't even have a squealer on it but bought a Kewtech 107 which is as described above. Has a basic loop test function and can also pick up swapped L/N: https://www.kewtechcorp.com/products/loopcheck-107/

There'd be a increased processing overhead of making 30 minutes the default, if you make the minority opt-in as required it wouldn't be so much of a hit.

Less so if it's a smart thermostat and the valves are from the same supplier but you'd have to check the reviews carefully, the reason I didn't just get Hive radiator valves is as well as being pricey some of the reviews were very "meh"

And there's also a second automation that shuts the valve 30 minutes after Hive has stopped calling for heat.

There is such a thing but it's the integration with the heating and a level of automation that makes them useful. I work from home some days so had a similar issue. As I have Home Assistant talking to Hive I bought myself a cheap underfloor heating actuator that replaces the TRV head...

The damage looks like trapping between the backbox and the plate, that would give it a path to earth in a trapped state.

That controller uses a frequency that's distinct from WiFi or Zigbee (868 Mhz) so interference sources aren't that common, the manual does only give a range of 25m in a building though, possibly more likely to be a device fault.

I'd try a USB keyboard in the first instance, the power buttons are normally connected separately to the keyboard so one can work whilst the other doesn't.