Search results

I'd expect a little more clearance between live parts and earthed parts than the width of a crumb of bread!

Yes, label them so you know how to put them back. Insulate the ends of the wires before trying the machine again. Insulation faults in the dryer elements cause all sorts of odd faults with these machines.

It might be stuck with ice. Defrosting the unit should free the panel. It might also solve the leak issue if the drain hole is blocked with ice.

I want to know what the switch fuse is for?

I assume he was drunk at the time?!!!

This is a plug on a piece of hire equipment, how it was returned by a builder after he had hired it. All I've done for this photo is remove the cover. This was sent for repair with the complaint of shocks from appliance:

That is for switch modules not euro modules which are larger.

Careful, a 2 pin euro socket is not the same as a UK BS4579 shaver socket. A 2 pin euro plug will likely be a poor contact fit and get stuck in a shaver sized socket, the euro pins are much thinner and the metal contact caps overhang the pins and cause them to be stuck on the shutters of most...

The sensor measurements should be fairly stable, need to be measured while disconnected from the circuit board, make sure your fingers aren't touching the meter probes as your skin resistance will skew the readings. If both sensors are at the same temperature the readings should be the same too...

Yes the dual sounder one has some PVC wires connected to the terminals rather than just the 2 enamel ones in the photo.

IIRC the tmp sensors are marked on the PCB, they are connected with small 2 pin connectors, a white one and a black one. The room temperature sensor is marked below: There are guides online how to test temperature sensors, and the expected readings for the current temperature, I would expect...

If you have a 'smart' meter it will have already reported the loss of power as a fault back to HQ. If they care they might send an engineer to check why the power went down to your house but none of your neighbours. Removing the main fuse isn't allowed by normies but it's worse if you have...

They are apparently available rewirable with a strain relief, but I'm not sure where you can actually buy them. I used to work repairing appliances and items with strain relief boots the flex often used to break internally or the sheath split at the end of the boot rather than at the plug so...

I've not seen many electric clocks with winding holes in them... Here is the one I've had in the kitchen since I restored it in 2019

Or wire an electric clock into it!

Perhaps there is a faulty temperature sensor or a triac controlling the elements has failed short circuit. I've installed loads of these but not had any fail yet to need to do any fault finding.

I think this fitting is fully enclosed, but some open type GU10 fittings you can replace the lamp from the loft space above if it is accessible, to save damaging the decorations.

Is that on Big Clives bench??

That's the only one I've ever seen in the 23 years I've worked as an electrician. (I've seen the little 2 way 'extenso' extension boards that of course don't have a main switch but never a full sized one) It's not modified, there was no hole in the cover for a switch.

What about Wylex boards without a main switch? :)