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They get the sack if they don't. They aren't allowed in the loft either so have to throw the cable over the roof...

I was serious, it was clearly installed by a skilled carpenter.

I can't offer any advise, but that is some beautiful woodwork.

Cool. Sadly the only items I have here that are mentioned there are some Bill Radette 3 phase switches. Certainly seen some of the other stuff still in use. Ellison switchgear is nice stuff, and Welwyn vitreous enamel resistors are still wonderful things. I'd also love to see one of those Pyrex...

Some of our jobs involved wiring entire houses in MI. Don't forget those old council houses wired in the stuff!

From the photo.

Mineral insulated copper cable (MICC) Lasts forever and looks good when properly installed, no plastics to burn except the sheath, does not ignite, even when severely overloaded, smaller OD, fun to install, robust as hell, cables available with up to 19 conductors. FP200 Cheap, garbage cable...

The missing blanks from the normal consumer unit need to be replaced. I guess the space was once filled with the 2 LeGrill MCBs now in the off peak board.

I can remove the lamp from my bathroom pendant while standing in the bath, and then poke my fingers into the lampholder. My will to live however stops me from doing that. I can also spray it with the shower!

Some of the first CUs I fitted were like that. How silly things have become now.

You changed the silver part too?

The UPS2 has a circuit board in it with the speed control electronics in the black part, these are delicate and fail frequently. If the motor in the silver bit is faulty it will kill any replacement circuit modules. The circuit modules often fail as a short across live and neutral, that often...

Post a photo showing exactly what part was replaced, I assumed the terminal box you were referring to was the black part of the pump where the wires connect?

The ones in the terminal box with the lights on.

The electronics are probably blown then.

But you used the old motor? The motor windings could be faulty killing the old electronics, now hew new electronics could be dead.

Was the entire pump changed, or just the motor? Does the shaft rotate freely through he bleed screw?

looks like it. It's probably a Legrande consumer unit.

Does the heating valve appear to open and close when heating is turned on and off? When off and closed the little manual lever on the valve should have resistance. It will be free when the valve is open.

OMG that wiring centre!