Search results

Not sure, must have read it somewhere, something to do with safety. Black used to be used for earth too, guess that should also be changed to g/y. By the way, I have just swapped my unsafe tanning lamp for this safe one that has no exposed live parts.

You should replace green earth sleeving with green and yellow if you are replacing the accessory.

The sad thing is this 1930s toaster that only cooks one side at a time is much faster than my pathetic modern one that does both sides at the same time. There is a design flaw with this one though, the stops that prevent the sides opening too far are too low, so the very hot metal at the top...

You can move the off screw to the white section at midnight if you want it off at midnight each night, the on time will still track the seasons.

I think it meant the opening where you put the bread, and it would take effort to touch it with your finger as it the tingly parts are under the opening. My toaster would not comply, as the elements aren't surrounded, it would be easy to touch them during normal use of the appliance. It makes...

They are permitted as long as the elements are surrounded by earthed metal IIRC. Lampholders with the lamp missing are also permitted.

You're saying my tanning lamp is unsafe?

I was working at a property last year, a plumber was trying to sell Ferroli to the client... :cautious:

We have fitted a few and yes they work. Try improving the existing ventilation first though, as it man not be needed. Opening any window trickle vents, better bathroom fans with a sensible timer overrun, not drying clothes indoors etc. The original owners of my house kept everything sealed shut...

Yes you can, there are plenty of high quality fans available. 4 years ago I fitted a 4" Vortice Lineo in-line fan in my bathroom, installed and ducted it properly. It is very quiet and the mirror and window no longer steam up when the shower is in use, I fitted the ceiling grille directly above...

Isn't that where it should be?

Yes, as long as the duct vents properly to the outside. The duct should also be insulated to stop condensation on the inside, this often then runs down the motor wires and damages the timer circuit board for the fan. These are cheap fan kits, often with poor performance. The bit in the ceiling...

That's the fan!

That would suggest 4.0mm².

12V is for the rear terminals T1&T2, 5V for the USB input.

Their wiring is different, they don't use the heatlink for one, the Nest controller does it all, hence the 10 terminals rather than the 2 in the UK model. I guess it would be difficult to get power to the unit without extra wiring.

I did wonder, a neon screwdriver wont detect a missing neutral.

Not using electric when a gas supply is available would be a start! Switching to electric will be incredibly expensive to run. We look after a few houses with such an arrangement, requiring large stores of hot water for the heating, and hot water, heated with 18KW worth of immersion heaters...

Is there power at the pumps terminals?

I get it!