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I want to hang a toilet-roll holder in my newly built bathroom and I'll have to drill through tiles. I'll be drilling about 6 inches from the side of the cistern and, on the other side, about 6 inches from the screen of a walk-in shower. Can I assume that bit of the wall will be clear of...

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. It's interesting - SLC seems to divide people.... I've just spoken to 2 different professional fitters. I'd sent them photos of the uneven chipboard panels and asked how much to level them. One suggested levelling the whole room with SLC (£7 per m2)...

My hesitation is simply out of fear. I'm not an experienced DIYer and my nightmare would be the SLC leaking through to the ceiling below. That's why I was rather optimistically hoping a thicker underlay would do the job. So on balance I think I'll get some professional quotes. Thanks for all...

If you think it will really be worth it, I will get a professional to level it with SLC. I'm just making sure I don't throw good money after bad... I'm guessing it will be quite expensive to level, given it's chipboard and in the loft, so sealing will have to be very thorough.

I may speak to them, but I favour sorting it out by myself if it's possible and straightforward, otherwise I'll be waiting weeks. By paper underlay, I'm guessing you mean this sort of thing? Or maybe this which is thicker?

I don't think I'm going to try my hand at sanding it! I'd make it worse rather than better. Can I just confirm if the underlays I suggested are any good or not? Otherwise I suppose I'm left with the option of getting a professional in, since I'm pretty sure screeding a chipboard floor is...

Not sure I could sort it out with my toolset/competence. I could probably make the step a little bit smoother, but I doubt I could produce a gradual slope. Here's the worst step. Wouldn't the 2mm or 3mm underlays equalise this?

Can I put something under the underlay (!) to level it? I think I'm supposed to use the Quick-Step underlay in order to get their warranty. If not how about something like this (2mm thick) or this (3mm)? I'm guessing it's a problem if it's too thick/spongy, as you don't want any movement with...

Thanks. I could moan but, being ignorant about these things, I'm never entirely sure what standard I should expect from builders. What do you consider a decent underlay? Presumably something more than Quick-Step's own 'comfort' underlay? (it's 1.15mm thick)

I'm a novice DIYer trying to lay Quick-Step vinyl flex planks (floating) in my recently finished loft conversion. The loft floor is chipboard panels and I've bought Quick-Step comfort underlay. However, the floor isn't totally level. Some of the chipboard panels are maybe 1-2mm proud of...

No, sorry, I've not been clear: my hole has definitely filled up with water. The water is filling BOTH my stopcock pit AND the water meter chamber. But the point is that the water meter chamber has been full of water for weeks, long before I started fiddling with the stopcock in my front garden...

That's a sobering story! Is it straightforward for Thames to check their connections at the water meter? If so, I can't help feeling they should have done that when they came out a couple of weeks ago. I have gone to a lot of trouble since they told me that the problem lay with my own stopcock.

I was there the whole time the plumber worked on the stopcock. He was extremely cautious in everything he did as he suspected this pipe was lead. He dug out as much as he could around the stopcock before trying to unscrew the old fittings and I couldn't see any lifting or wiggling as he did so...

Today the plumber came to put in the new stopcock. I suggested changing just the headgear but he was happy to replace the whole thing. Once he'd finished, I watched the stopcock as he switched the water mains back on. Water came gushing from somewhere between the stopcock and the meter...

I have about 5 plumbers in. First one suggested new boiler and electric power shower. Second one just shrugged shoulders. Third one replaced heat exchanger (at my request) and then came back to replace diverter valve (at his suggestion). The diverter replacement **seemed** to sort the problem...

I spoke to another plumber who will do it next week for £100. All I have to provide is the new stopcock, so I think I would be mad to try it myself. Are all stopcocks equal? For example, will this do the job? Thanks, I'll investigate this. After it's all finished, I thought it might be...

Apologies, I did it the lazy way: I turned off the main stopcock and let some of the water drain, then did the scrape test. It's difficult to reach, so my photo isn't great, but wouldn't you say this looks like copper? IMG_20190201_121342 by pulck posted 1 Feb 2019 at 12:18 PM

Unfortunately, it's currently under 3 inches of muddy water because of the leak so I can't do the scratch test at the moment. I just tried a magnet, though, and it's not magnetic.

Sadly that's not the kitchen on the other side of that wall - that's the pavement/road. So the mains stoptap is only about 3-4 feet away. The kitchen is in the other direction - behind me as I'm holding the camera. That pipe almost certainly runs under my front garden (about 10'), under my...