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WARNING. Do not attempt to measure resistance on live conductors

230/240 volts between the orange wires terminal and earth terminal when downstairs valve only is on calling for heat.

Yes ,you would need to do some voltage testing to establish if the orange wire at the wiring centre reads 230/240 volts . Are you competent to work safely on live circuitry ?

The motorised valve sends the voltage to the boiler to fire it up. The motorised valve gets its voltage from the thermostat.

If the upstairs is switched on ,fires up the boiler,and downstairs switched off ( no call for heat from downstairs stat),do the downstairs rads still heat up ? If so ,the valve body of the downstairs valve must be physically stuck open.

You should really start your own thread to get more response.

I tend to fit the top brackets ,hang the rad ,then present the bottom brackets in situ. Mark their positions,take rad off ,and then fix the bottom brackets.

What was the engineers diagnosis,and what parts were suggested that needed replacing ?

Yes it could . (y) (y)

Not quite. The thread of the isolation valve in your pic ( what the tap tail screws onto) is 1/2 inch BSP. The washing machine / dishwasher hose thread is 3/4 inch BSP. The Tee in your link is not correct. An equal Tee can be used but it would have to be fitted onto the copper,after the...

You should introduce a Tee into the copper supply pipe and extend from it to an appliance isolation valve .

Is the problem radiator a vertical / designer type ,or a standard panel radiator ? Given the fact that the problem rad heats fully when all others are closed off ,then there isn't anything wrong with it ,or it's valves. Close every other rads lockshield valve fully ,open the problem rads...

Who balanced the system ,and how ?

Is the leak only where the brass part screws into the chrome valve body ? If so ,is the brass part fully tightened up ? It should be fairly easy to make that joint watertight, if you are relatively confident on working on the plumbing.

Yes it is. That doesn't look like a new pan and cistern. What exactly were you doing ,just fitting new float valve and siphon ?

Why not take the cistern to a decent plumbers merchant who can supply one that fits. A flush valve is usually operated by a flush button ,but you can get lever operated ones. A siphon is what you have. Is the WC close coupled ,or is there a flush pipe ?

Buy a flush valve ,or a smaller siphon.

Can't say I have ever used prestex tap con washers,but they look the same as any others.

And you need to remove all traces of the old washer so the fitting is nice and clean before fitting the new washer.

That's a 1/2 inch, fibre ,tap connector washer.