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If it did it once then it can do it again and/or fail completely - your choice to risk it or not. Trouble is if it's working just now then it may not be apparent what is actually causing the issue when under test.

Do you mean you aren't getting any flow into the Cold Water cistern (CWSC) in the attic or a toilet cistern? Is it just a trickle?

Ah ok - yep ... fair enough, didn't think about that - of course, direct correlation

Don't meant to disagree but ..... The 145's differential (delta) pressure scale is in mbar/bar, not M head

No - numbers would usually equate to pressure in Mbar/bar - that being the pressure against the valve needed for it to start to open, s a lower number means less pressure needed to open the valve. That noise is more indicative of a fouled valve, may need removed and cleaned or replaced. The...

Get the unvented serviced properly by a qualified engineer. Unvented cylinders are not a DIY appliance. The ones with the internal bubble are the only (edit) ones that can have that restored by the client but nothing else on the unit. Anything else should be serviced by someone qualified. These...

Yea +2 - why don't you use a piece of ply to build the wood out till it's level. That's the process I follow when coming across dot 'n' dabbed board over brick. When putting a really large rad on a wall like that I cut out the plasterboard and fill the gap with wood secured to the wall behind...

The rust needs treated first before anything. it needs a wire brush to remove as much as possible the use a rust converter before anything else to reduce the chance of it returning.

A little silicone grease and pop one of these in

+1 - If it's fitted into that boss properly I would be expecting to have to cut it too and then use a straight coupler to remake.

You would use a 35mm Forstner drill bit with depth stop, you can get kits/jigs online easily enough.

The hinges etc are usually set up for standard doors and spacing/depths with some wiggle room. The trouble starts when fitting to a bespoke or altered/non standard set of units

Yeah - the bath waste hole should be a standard and would normally accept a standard 11/2" bath waste with a ~70mm wide top flange. Go easy with the bath enamel and rusted area as the worst thing would be to clean it all prior to touching up and then create holes where the rust was, though in...

Ok - so the case will need to come off and the control box opened up, hopefully it's just the plastic knob that's @ issue/jammed and not an issue with the rotary switch on the PCB.

I'd also be checking the combination valve output, if you say the other taps are all fine. As @oldbuffer mentions though, I would be taking, dynamic pressure and flow reading @ the mains to give a starting point, the rest is all guess work really until there is a known baseline and therefore...

They would normally be screwed in at an angle, so get a small screwdriver or the sharp end of a screw and clear out the slots in the heads of the screws, see what type of screw they are - phillips 2 or pozi 2 - and then use a battery gun with the correct bit to get them out.

Just to clarify when you say Are you talking about the cold supply or the hot?

An unvented cylinder should really have a 22mm feed all the way from the mains to the combination valve to maximise flow. Then there should be a balanced feed either from the combination valve itself or at least after the Pressure Reducing Valve to ensure there are no issues with monobloc...

Looks like that standard foot has been covered in tile adhesive? Hammer and chisels and break it out?

Not usually if it can be then yes Cement beds are an older and trusted approach to bedding shower trays but there are much better options these day IMO. As suggested a good quality flexible tile adhesive being one excellent choice. Newer silicone adhesives are also a good option, especially...