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Tell him where you want the boiler, same space underneath as the old one. Otherwise get another quote. I think they can drill a new hole and install the new flue from the inside. Trouble is blocking up the old hole and rendering over with cement on the second floor.

Sorry I said temp values ; The same applies to the HW & CH programme settings - they are fixed values that can be saved to memory - the clock needs continous power.

Is the gas (meter etc) inthe garage ? Then a gas convector would be good. Just needs a small flue on an outside wall.

We had a similar situation - new flue above old one, old hole was bricked up to match brickwork. Your problem is being on the third floor. Have the two flats below yours had their boilers replaced ? Strange square white patches on the wall ?

The HW & CH temp settings are static values so can be stored in non volatile memory. However the time is not, so power is needed to keep the timer running. So onpower down you would need a small battery tokeep the clock running - maybe it does not have battery backup or the battery needs replacing.

I came accross a similar problem at my son's house - previously somone had converted to a combi by running the hot all the way to where the old hot tank was to pick up the hot feeds to the bathroom and kitchen. We re- plumbed directly to the kitchen cutting out about 20m of the pipework which...

I would suggest you need the patio cleaning attachment as well - circular thing with rotating jets. It makes a better job of it. Then spray with Patio Magic or similar which keeps the mould in control for months.

Get "pressure treated" not dip treated whatever you get. The orangey ones are dip treated.

"Build up of sediment in the flex" may have something to do with horizontal use ?

Use a louver door for the cupboard door - i seem to remenber you can get various standard sizes, then make the frame to suit. Change to a smart meter - they will check it out when they come to fix the new meter!

https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-sp100-swan-neck-pan-connector-white/87212 This what i ment.

Search for "SWAN NECK PAN CONNECTOR" - It may even be too close ! But watch out for flushing problems. I think the Swan neck is designed to go downwards where an the old soil pipe was in the floor so better check if it will work horizontaly.

Well after my other post I decided to make my own radiator "knob". This is the MK1 , I may improve the shape later. This works better than the original, more leverage.

There is another post on here saying that looks like there was a screw down the middle and the head of the screw has been broken off ?

Maybe one of the arms is actually screwed in ?

I think he means look around the sides for a grub screw or other hidden fixing, don't force it around.

A none return valve does reduce the flow a little so only fit one for the outside tap.

It may be caked with mud or even plaster or cement. This happens when workmen wash out their plaster bucket down the drain ! Try some more poking around.

Thanks all ! I'll carry on using a spanner for now until the bathroom refurb. The valve has a proper gland so does not leak so no problem.