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I'd recommend buying a cheap multimeter, something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas830b-digital-multimeter-600v/75337 Set it to the highest AC Voltage range (600V~ in this case) and check that the HW OFF (240V) is actually present when it should be. Then you'll have a better idea...

Yes, one of the wires will be Live permanently but it's the other switched one that should connect to terminal 4 of Hive.

Go by the Honeywell instructions for their specific thermostat and stick to the way it is currently wired. The Nest diagram may well apply to other makes of cylinder thermostat but not yours.

When the timer is set to OFf one of the two control wires from it will NOT be Live and when it is ON that same wire will become Live. That is the wire which your Hive will then control by connecting it to the Hive Heating On terminal and this will also effectively bypass the timer which must be...

As a punter I'd feel guilty making any tradesman wait more than a day or two for payment. The only thing that delayed my last payment was the wait for the engineer to send me his bill and bacs details.

I've seen some online claims for a heat output of 3 times the electrical consumption but I've no experience of how realistic this is in practice.

Oil is a little more expensive than mains gas but still much cheaper than electricity.

I don’t think it’s excessive and as long as the pipe is sitting right inside the valve to the end stop you are unlikely to have any problems.

I can only apologise to all if I've misinterpreted the images posted and caused even more confusion. Can someone clarify which Vaillant control unit that is in the picture and is it powered via ebus or does it require mains power with wifi comms?

Its a misprint or if it's a PDF taken from a scanned document it could be an OCR error. It will be litres/min.

As I said earlier would that actually help? You may then have the problem of locating the path of that cable in the wall or under floorboards etc in order to pull through enough of it to connect to the Heatlink.

Even if you did find out which one of those power cables goes to the thermostat will you be able to pull the cable out of the socket backplate and safely get access to it somewhere where it can be connected to the Heatlink?

I haven't played with one of those valves but hopefully you should be able to operate the thumbwheel to open the valve.

If there is a lever on the valve for HW try operating it manually and check that the boiler then fires up. It may just be a sticky valve causing the problem or it’s motor may be on the way out.

Your BDR91 in the picture is set up without a Live link so the Heatlink should be wired the same way. Adding a wire from Live to terminal 2 is unnecessary and could even cause serious damage to the boiler.

All I can suggest is try and trace the mains power wiring back from the old Vaillant thermostat to see where its hooked up to the house mains wiring. Normally this would be taken from somewhere close to the boiler. If it does come from the same spur as the boiler it can be disconnected from the...

I agree Dan but nevertheless here goes again.. The leads now in A & B in the Honeywell go into 2 & 3 in the Heatlink. Of course the Live and Neutral are also required to power the Heatlink.

The TRV side gets hot because there's a trickle of hot water entering the radiator from that end. Wherever the restriction is (very likely to be the TRV stuck) the lockshield end is bound to remain at least considerably cooler.

1 to 5 are OK 6) You can power the Nest directly using the 'usb' lead power adaptor. No need for T1 & T2 to be connected if not required. If the Grey and Black wires do go all the way from the boiler to the wall thermostat directly you could use them to carry the power using T1 & T2, provided...