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Yes, that’s how they are designed, they have expansion gap all round the outside, however, your proposal will cause the floor to flex up and down and expand/move across and around the space

The OSB will move on the carpet, the Laminate will move on the Underlay, together they’ll move twice as much at least than if the Laminate was fitted correctly. Not only will it bounce, it will move all over the room as it’s a floating floor.

The whole thing will wobble like a jelly.

How were you planning on fixing the OSB down?

30+ Years in the professional flooring trade, but what would I know right?

You’ll need a screed coat to level the floor and dip over the crack bridge to take the worst of the dip out and of course the gap between the conduit and the concrete, when this dried, it will sink/dip/slump in these areas, then you’ll want a final coat screed to actually level the whole floor...

They are knackered, see if you can get a remnant piece of vinyl, preferably with a felt backing and lay it over the top.

The correct way to deal with this is to lay Uzin Crack Bridge around the conduit where it joins the concrete and then lay two 3mm coats of Mapei Renovation self levelling screed. Anything else you do will allow this to show at some point in the future, although minimal prep has the bonus of...

You can buy really nice quality V4 Alpine click engineered. for those prices.

The. Jenny, you need to do some research on what’s involved in digging out the entire subfloor of the property and re-building it from the ground up, compared to what I have suggested, which would achieve pretty much the same thing, unless, you have rising damp.

You’ll wait forever for it to dry naturally if it ever dries at all. My advice as per before still stands.

This method will encapsualate the subfloor with an epoxy DPM, sandwiched between to layers of Self Levelling Screed, all the products are suitable in hospital environments, I would advise perhaps asking the same questions of the product manufacturers: Arditex and F-Ball's customer service advice...

To deal with what you have exposed, my advice is solid and will encapsulate the floor indefinitely. Your health issues, you’d need to speak to a professional, but if you have damp etc then my advice as to how to treat the sub floor you have exposed still stands.

Self levelling screed coat over that floor with Ardit NA or F-Ball 1200, then apply a liquid DPM either Ardit or F-Ball F77 and then finish with a final screed coat of Ardit NA or F-Ball 1200. That will encapsulate the floor and permanently stop any moisture coming through as long as you don't...

Have a Look at Staiirods UK profiles, they do specific laminate step profiles that are vvery nice and subtle

You won't be able to tell by looking at the area, you need to test the floor with a protimeter or ideally a Hydrometer Box to be sure. Obviously going with a screed/dpm/secreed sandwich negates the testing entirely.

If you have an Engineered wood floor you could glue this to the top of the DPM if the floor is level enough and save the cost of the second Self Levelling Screed area. If you plan to float the Wood or plan on carpets then you'll need the second Screed Coat. Remember to stick and NOT pin the...

Do you plan to lay a floor on top, or just walk on the Screed? The simplest way to tackle the area is to Uplift all floorcoverings and tiles Apply Ardit NA Apply painted DPC Apply final coat Ardit NA Only issues with the above is that the Ardit NA is not a finished floor surface so will wear...

Technically you don't need SP101 but personally from experience it's a big risk that's probably not worth the relative extra cost. The biggest issue you have is speccing click LVT, it's a nightmare, even with the 'right' subfloor prep. We have had jobs fail on perfect subfloors due to the...

Back Fill to level, Apply Liquid DPM - something like F-Ball F77 and then self levelling screed over the DPM. Floor will 'breathe' through walls but should'nt be an issue so long as no excessive heavy damp issue and floor is 'breathing' it out (no leaks)